Type: Trad, TR, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,347 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jonathan Steitzer on Oct 11, 2011
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


18 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a great leadable climb. Don't be fooled by that 5.3 rating though, due to heavy traffic the holds are all polished and slick as marbles.

According to the guidebook, the first part of the climb you should head up the face climb to the left of the crack, then move into the crack once you're on the easier ground.

If you head right up the crack though, it is definitely quite challenging, and feels more like 5.8ish for the first few moves till you're up it.

Enjoy the harder start, then scamper up the low angle ramp to the vertical exit. Good fun.

Location

Hades Heights, in the crack upstream from nubble face.

Protection

Nuts.

Photos

Timmamok n/a   none
Isn't this called "Golden Staircase"? I don't know what the guide book says(and the Horst guide is pretty so so if I recall correctly - check the old Carderock book) but just go up the crack. hard for 5.3 - good old school rating and 5.8ish is right on for the first move or so. Fun solo. Feb 24, 2012
GonnaBe  
Timmamok,
My understanding is that Golden Staircase uses the face to the left of the crack. The "grain" of the rock changes a couple times in a short distance up there and its a great climb-- just left of this crack. Mar 2, 2012
As others have said, the opening move is way harder than 5.3. The first time I climbed this route was on toprope and it was no big deal. So I thought it would be great to practice leading on after starting to learn that. 5.3, right? On a solo lead, that opening move turned out to be awfully sketchy. After that, the climbing is pretty easy until the very end, where the last move to the top is a little tricky as well. But on toprope, you probably won't be doing that move. Aug 20, 2014
Agreed with other posters. First few feet are significantly harder than the rest of the crack. Once past the first part, the 5.3 rating feels right, right up until the last move or 2 which ups the difficulty again. Jul 4, 2016