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Routes in Carderock

Bad Rock T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barnacle Face T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beautiful, Little, Lie Back T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beginner's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginner's Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Biceps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Biceps - Var: Right Wall T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Biceps - Var: Thumbthing T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Biceps - Var: Thumbthing Else T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Billy Goat Boulder V2 5+
Blue Easter Egg TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buckets of Blood Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Buckets of blood (overhang) V7 7A+
Bulge, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bulging Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bump, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfly TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Carderock Low Traverse V5 6C
Cars and Trucks and Things That Go V1- 5-
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Chris Wex Don Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chris' Cruz T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chris's Goat TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Copycat TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Court Echelle TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack, The T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cripple's Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cripple's Cube V2 5+
Cripple's Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crippling Paralysis TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crucifixion T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Crystal Ship TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death Nerve T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Desperation TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diamond, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Direct, The TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easy Layback TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eight Ball TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eliminates T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elsie's TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elsie's Arete TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elsie's Nose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elsie's Other TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evan's Bolt Ladder T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Face To Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat Man's Fantasy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fifi T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingernail TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flake, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flutterby TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friction Layback TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Staircase TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Bucket TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Easter Egg TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guillotine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hades Heights Girdle Traverse T V1-2 5
Herbie's Horror TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Herbie's Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impossible T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incipient TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Iron Cross TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jackknife T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Jam Box TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Box Chimney TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jam Crack TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Jan's Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jan's Face - Var: Eight Ball T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jan's Face - Var: Left Edge T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kindergarten TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Krypton V5+ 6C+
Laundry Chute, The T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Lazy Daisy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Edge of Jane's Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Leonards Lunacy T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Dog TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Make A Wish T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Margie's Chimney T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Marion's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Meenehan's Edge T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meenehan's Staircase T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Merv's Nerve TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Near Matt Splat T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Norris' Nipple T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Norris's Nipple T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose That Blows, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Nubbin (Nubble) Face TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Outlook Rock Boulder V1-2 5
Overhanging Block T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Parking Lot Traverse, The V2 5+
Photogenic T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pre-Kindergarten Boulder T V-easy 3
Rack Direct, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road Rage V0 4
Ronnie's Leap TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Serenity Syndrome TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shipley's TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shonard's Lunacy TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V6 7A
Silver Spot TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Silver Sucker TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot It Out V3 6A
Sloth, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spider Walk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stannards Playground/TB Boulder TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sterling's Crack TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sterling's Double Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swayback Layback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweethog TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swollen Head T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tea and Scrumpet V3 6A
Tomb of the Unknown Shoulder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Top Roping at Carderock with Tots TR 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Triple A TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trudie's Terror T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turkey V2 5+
Twitch T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Upper Wall Crack T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Upper Wall Jam Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Vulgarian Wedge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk On By T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wet Dream T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wish Come True T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
X, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yellow Jacket TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zig Zag TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,313 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jonathan Steitzer on Oct 11, 2011
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Description

This is a great leadable climb. Don't be fooled by that 5.3 rating though, due to heavy traffic the holds are all polished and slick as marbles.

According to the guidebook, the first part of the climb you should head up the face climb to the left of the crack, then move into the crack once you're on the easier ground.

If you head right up the crack though, it is definitely quite challenging, and feels more like 5.8ish for the first few moves till you're up it.

Enjoy the harder start, then scamper up the low angle ramp to the vertical exit. Good fun.

Location

Hades Heights, in the crack upstream from nubble face.

Protection

Nuts.

Photos

Timmamok Murphy
Durango, CO
Timmamok Murphy   Durango, CO
Isn't this called "Golden Staircase"? I don't know what the guide book says(and the Horst guide is pretty so so if I recall correctly - check the old Carderock book) but just go up the crack. hard for 5.3 - good old school rating and 5.8ish is right on for the first move or so. Fun solo. Feb 24, 2012
GonnaBe  
Timmamok,
My understanding is that Golden Staircase uses the face to the left of the crack. The "grain" of the rock changes a couple times in a short distance up there and its a great climb-- just left of this crack. Mar 2, 2012
As others have said, the opening move is way harder than 5.3. The first time I climbed this route was on toprope and it was no big deal. So I thought it would be great to practice leading on after starting to learn that. 5.3, right? On a solo lead, that opening move turned out to be awfully sketchy. After that, the climbing is pretty easy until the very end, where the last move to the top is a little tricky as well. But on toprope, you probably won't be doing that move. Aug 20, 2014
Agreed with other posters. First few feet are significantly harder than the rest of the crack. Once past the first part, the 5.3 rating feels right, right up until the last move or 2 which ups the difficulty again. Jul 4, 2016

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