Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,902 total · 23/month
Shared By: GonnaBe on Apr 12, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Climb the block left of Nubble Face to a ledge below underclings and side pulls along with slick feet. Move up to the "green bucket" hold and then up and over the overhang. This route at Carderock may not live up to its rating compared to some other classics.

Location

Just left of Nubble Face and climber's right from the down climb. Move too far right on the side pulls and underclings and you're on Desperation.

Protection

This is a boulder problem on top rope.

Photos

Dave Rockwell  
5.8
proper technique quickly reduces this to a 5.8, though a very nice one. undercling, sidecling, layback as per usual. Nov 20, 2013
Chris Irwin
Silver Spring, Maryland
 
Chris Irwin   Silver Spring, Maryland
 
this is really a one move wonder... but it's a good one move wonder. There are several variations through the crux: left, center, right and far right. Feb 8, 2016
The current Carderock guide calls this a 10b. I think people finding this easier might be climbing straight up to the Green Bucket hold and then pulling the overhang, which does feel 5.8 or 5.9. However, the guidebook diagram has you going up a thin crack system until beneath the overhang and then traversing right to get under the Green Bucket. Doing it this way, I felt it was on par with most other Carderock 10s I have done, and the thin crack system was the clear crux for me. But everyone gets a different feel off a climb. Apr 17, 2016