Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,917 total · 25/month
Shared By: Rocket on Aug 17, 2012 with updates from Connor Pace
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Climb the crack and corner. Good holds all the way up.

Location

Last climb before the path ends at the downstream end of Hades Heights

Protection

TR: Trees and boulders for toprope anchors

Trad: Normal Stopper set, Cams .1-#2

Photos

GonnaBe
  5.8
GonnaBe  
  5.8
The PATC guide rates this climb at 5.8 which may be a little inflated but it certainly isn't a 5.4. Do you agree with Horst's rating or were you just acknowledging your source to some extent? Sep 16, 2012
Phil Keffer  
5.7
I agree this is not a 5.4 climb. I gave it 5.7. Dec 8, 2014
Chris Irwin
Silver Spring, Maryland
  5.6
Chris Irwin   Silver Spring, Maryland
  5.6
great climb with cool stemmy offwidth moves. if you don't take advantage of all of the rock around the crack, this will feel hard for the grade. Feb 4, 2016
Connor Pace
  5.7
Connor Pace  
  5.7
Takes gear well on trad. To protect the bottom a .1 or .2 BD X4 works well. Slot a quick #10 stopper after mantling the ledge and move into the crux. Trust the uncertain foot in the corner and grab the arete above before slotting a phenomenal knee bar on the left side for a good rest to place gear. Cruise to the top from there.

Used: Normal Stopper set, Cams .1-#2 Apr 2, 2017
The trusted local guidebook calls this 5.8, and another respected guidebook calls it 5.4. It is harder than 5.4 but easier than 5.8, so just go with 5.6 in mind.

The long crack screams for pro; just be aware that the last 10-15' will be on a run-out slab, though I have gotten a marginal hex placement in there.

I don't trust cams in the rock here, but the crack certainly will take them well. Dec 9, 2017
adamsc
Cincinnati, OH
  5.6
adamsc   Cincinnati, OH
  5.6
This is a great climb for the area. Apr 9, 2018