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Right Peyote Crack
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.7 from 89
votes
Routes in Peyote Cracks Formation - W. Face
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Ayahuasca Slab TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Button Soup T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Face It T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Left Peyote Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Matt's Problem T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Middle Peyote Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Right Peyote Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown (Peyote) Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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When You're A Poodle T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zygote T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,512 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 22, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This crack had no apparent crux, but several moves requiring a little effort. The general protectability of the route and good rests from which to place gear make it a reasonable lead to push your grade on.
There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall. The right-most of these starts with jams and gets a little wider as you go up. There are several moves at the 5.7 or 5.8 grade, but with a good set of cams, these can all be protected before commiting.
The anchor up top requires cams of various sizes and a long coralette or webbing.
There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall. The right-most of these starts with jams and gets a little wider as you go up. There are several moves at the 5.7 or 5.8 grade, but with a good set of cams, these can all be protected before commiting.
The anchor up top requires cams of various sizes and a long coralette or webbing.
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