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Routes in Peyote Cracks Formation - W. Face

Button Soup T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Face It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Left Peyote Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Middle Peyote Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Peyote Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (Peyote) Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zygote T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,135 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the hardest 5.10 I have done at J-tree. I fell on it twice on lead (micronuts and the smallest lowe-ball.

There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall, THe left-most of these starts with a double-overhanging open book. The thin seam protects fromt he ground with a few tiny nuts, and then again from a finger-burning stance if you have the power for it (tiny lowe-ball, & more brass). There is no shortage of pro opportunity here, and it should be taken prior to firing off the route if you have any doubts about onsigting 5.10+.

Climb up on key smears (on the 2 overhanging walls of the open book) to better holds above (5.9 moves) to reach a wide, but easy crack above (5.5?) and proceed to the top.

This route is short but physically and mentally challening. I took my first ever J-tree lead falls on it.

Protection

The crux is low, but high enough to really twist your ankles or smack into your belayer and get dropped, perhaps with feet 6' off the ground and in a contorted body position. Gear is difficult to place. The gear at the crux for me consisted of a few small brass nuts and a tiny lowe-ball. Yes, it held 2 falls. After the crux the climbing is still a little strenous to place gear from for a few moves, and a fall is ill-advised. Use short slings to avoid ground-potential.The route can be TR's from large cams in a crack above with either long runners or a cordalette.

Photos

More of a boulder problem to an easy solo to exit than a route. The hard bit is getting up the first 10 ft. A thin layback in a corner, leads to a larger crack. People tell me a hold has broken and that it is harder then 5.10 now, this made me feel much better about how hard it felt to do. Feb 24, 2004
Crack Addict
San Diego, CA
 
Crack Addict   San Diego, CA
 
I agree with Mike as far as the boulder problem to easy solo. Seems like it would be much harder and heavier to place and lug pro. Stemming was the key for me. Jan 22, 2006
Not even remotely 5.10. Jun 27, 2006
Pat C
Honolulu
5.14d
Pat C   Honolulu
5.14d
I've worked this thing with a bouldering pad multiple times and just get shut down every time. I'm close, but it's just so akward and super hard. Jun 11, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.11+ PG13
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.11+ PG13
Bullshit! A sandbag even for Joshua Tree, the start should be given a bouldering grade, felt at least V3 and was unprotectable.

The techy powerful start requires powerful liebacking, stemming and a lot of awkward counter force movements that are all way to hard for the alleged 5.10 grade.

I guess the first 15 feet really don't count in the rating. Nov 30, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Well, it is the only 5.10 in Jtree I've ever fallen off of, and probably one of the only 5.10's I've fallen off of PERIOD in the last 20 years. I'm almost 100% certain it's the only one that has pooched me twice. Nov 30, 2009
AstroDood
his mind
AstroDood   his mind
A bouldery, small featured and smeary lieback (eff you auto-correct) guards easy crack to the top. Free Tibet Nov 25, 2013
Tradiban
  5.10
Tradiban  
  5.10
V3 with a good landing. This is pretty tame using good technique. I would never bother to rope up on it, not even that tall! Mar 4, 2014
R Sather
COLORADO
  5.11a
R Sather   COLORADO
  5.11a
Did this in succession with the other Peyote Cracks. Tried this on my first trip to jtree with no success, but came back recently and happened to pull through the liebacks. I chose to use one crash pad and I also used a small rack. Climbed up and jumped off several times before I threw in a .1 red X4. Couldn't really determine how the placement was but that ultimately protected the mental crux which for me was reaching the flared jams. My follower said it looked "bomber", but never fell on the piece. Liebacked to get my left hand as high as possible then changed body positioning so I was gastoning with my left and that allowed me to reach the flare with my right hand to a cupped jam. Always thought of this as a boulder problem, but upon leading it was glad to have placed gear. The crux is over once you have your feet in the flare, but the rock seems friable and it was a nice piece of mind to have a bomber #3 moving out of the initial crux to the easier terrain. The flares seemed grainy and made me wonder how often does this thing get topped out? I don't climb in jtree often so maybe for those who do climb here it's more reasonable sans rope. Get on it!!! Dec 14, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tradaholic,
I am quit perplexed.
You rated the climb 5.10 and commented that it is V3 (5.11c)???
Which is it? Dec 14, 2015

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