Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,718 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is the hardest 5.10 I have done at J-tree. I fell on it twice on lead (micronuts and the smallest lowe-ball.

There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall, THe left-most of these starts with a double-overhanging open book. The thin seam protects fromt he ground with a few tiny nuts, and then again from a finger-burning stance if you have the power for it (tiny lowe-ball, & more brass). There is no shortage of pro opportunity here, and it should be taken prior to firing off the route if you have any doubts about onsigting 5.10+.

Climb up on key smears (on the 2 overhanging walls of the open book) to better holds above (5.9 moves) to reach a wide, but easy crack above (5.5?) and proceed to the top.

This route is short but physically and mentally challening. I took my first ever J-tree lead falls on it.


The crux is low, but high enough to really twist your ankles or smack into your belayer and get dropped, perhaps with feet 6' off the ground and in a contorted body position. Gear is difficult to place. The gear at the crux for me consisted of a few small brass nuts and a tiny lowe-ball. Yes, it held 2 falls. After the crux the climbing is still a little strenous to place gear from for a few moves, and a fall is ill-advised. Use short slings to avoid ground-potential.The route can be TR's from large cams in a crack above with either long runners or a cordalette.