Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Top of the world/Entry way
Pearl Izumi Quest Bib Short - Men's

$64.99 23% off

$49.99

at AlsSports

168    more...
Patagonia Men's Classic Retro-X Jacket

$199.00 50% off

$99.50

at Patagonia

138    more...
Black Diamond Serac Clip Crampon

$159.99 25% off

$119.99

at AlsSports

9    more...
Black Diamond Focus Harness

$69.99 25% off

$52.49

at AlsSports

7    more...
Patagonia Men's R3(R) Hi-Loft Jacket

$179.00 50% off

$89.50

at Patagonia

178    more...
JanSport Salish Backpack - 2100cu in

$119.95 29% off

$83.97

at DeptOfGoods

94    more...
Petzl Sum-Tec Ice Axe

$175.00 20% off

$140.00

at GearX

12    more...
Camp USA Rope Bag

$39.95 20% off

$31.96

at Moosejaw

   more...
Cassin Turbo Stream Ice Screw

$99.95 20% off

$79.96

at Backcountry

12    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Select Route:
Black Bird, The 
Crossfire 
Deuce Bigelow 
Entry Way Overhang 
Gangster Hippie 
Give me room 
Gun crazy 
High Sierra 
Hippie Hole 
Hubcaps & Taillights 
I Say Tomato 
Johnny Rocco 
Ketel One 
Key Largo 
Kiss of Death 
Kiss Off, The 
Left Side Undercling 
Long Goodbye, The 
Point Blank 
Poor Slob Without a Name 
Reckless Moment, The 
Sally's Tomato 
Scarlet Street 
Smooth Patrol 
Suburban Hippie 
SW Boulder, Steep Arete 
This Gun for Hire 
Tokyo Joe 
Tomato's Tomato 
Top of the world, Ma! 
Vamp 
Why can't ya let 'em live? 
You Say Tomato 

Gangster Hippie 

V7

   
979 page views
Good page?   

Type: Boulder, 20 feet
Consensus: V6-7 [details]
FA: Jason Kamen
Submitted By: Rob Riggleman on Jul 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Gangster Hippie starts on the right-facing jugs, m...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Start on the right-facing jugs, and move left on some fairly bad slopers. Set up on some sloping feet and make a big move up to a sloping rail and try to surmount the bulge.


Location 

Pretty much straight uphill from the Entry Way boulder, the starting jugs are obvious and well-chalked.


Protection 

Pads.



Comments on Gangster Hippie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Riggleman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 8, 2009

Yet again I got info for this problem from here. I also took the grade from a video linked on their site; I haven't sent it yet, but I'll give it a star rating and my opinion on the grade if/when I put it together.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 18, 2010
rating: V5-6

There is a sit-start to this problem which begins down and right of the starting holds. Crank off of two sloping holds, burl through some fairly awkward climbing to gain Gangsta's starting rail, then blast off. Perhaps not a classic, but certainly a grunt-fest. About V7 or 8.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 12, 2010
rating: V5-6

I don't usually see it prudent (or worthwhile) to downgrade problems, but I kind of think V7 is a bit of a stretch for this problem. Maybe V6. Just my opinion; I'm not willing to push the issue. Problems in Santa Barbara have a way of cleaning up, morphing, losing holds, etc. It is—regardless of grade—one of the better problems at Lizard's Mouth.

By Nick Sullens
Mar 14, 2011
rating: V6

My vote is probably a six on normal days. The friction was incredible today and it felt like a five.