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Gangster Hippie

V6, Boulder, 20 ft,  Avg: 3.9 from 15 votes
FA: Jason Kamen
California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Santa Barbara… > The Lizard's Mouth > Top of the world/Entry way

Description

Start on the right-facing jugs, and move left on some fairly bad slopers. Set up on some sloping feet and make a big move up to a sloping rail and try to surmount the bulge.

Location

Pretty much straight uphill from the Entry Way boulder, the starting jugs are obvious and well-chalked.

Protection

Pads.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gangster Hippie starts on the right-facing jugs, moves a little left, then straight up.
[Hide Photo] Gangster Hippie starts on the right-facing jugs, moves a little left, then straight up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rob Riggleman
Santa Barbara, CA
[Hide Comment] Yet again I got info for this problem from here. I also took the grade from a video linked on their site; I haven't sent it yet, but I'll give it a star rating and my opinion on the grade if/when I put it together. Jul 8, 2009
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V5-6
[Hide Comment] There is a sit-start to this problem which begins down and right of the starting holds. Crank off of two sloping holds, burl through some fairly awkward climbing to gain Gangsta's starting rail, then blast off. Perhaps not a classic, but certainly a grunt-fest. About V7 or 8. Apr 18, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V5-6
[Hide Comment] I don't usually see it prudent (or worthwhile) to downgrade problems, but I kind of think V7 is a bit of a stretch for this problem. Maybe V6. Just my opinion; I'm not willing to push the issue. Problems in Santa Barbara have a way of cleaning up, morphing, losing holds, etc. It is—regardless of grade—one of the better problems at Lizard's Mouth. Aug 12, 2010
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
  V6
[Hide Comment] My vote is probably a six on normal days. The friction was incredible today and it felt like a five. Mar 14, 2011
Sean Denny
Irvine
  V6
[Hide Comment] Did the sit today. Started with a left hand in the big concave sloper, and the right hand on the lowest small sloping dish on the right face. This basically made it two moves to the hole. Grunty for sure. V7/8 for this start is my vote. It felt like wrestling with an ape. Jan 13, 2013