Buttermilks Main Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||37.3276, -118.5757 View Map Incorrect?
|Page Views: ||93,897|
|Administrators: ||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||AWinters on Mar 31, 2008|
BH milkin a Buttermilk, photo: Bob Horan Collectio...
The famed Buttermilks Main hillside- one of the premier bouldering destinations in the world.
This is the main bouldering venue in the Buttermilks, offering the highest concentration of boulders and classic routes within a convenient roadside locale. Climbers flock from all over the world to test themselves on this hillside, pushing both their physical and mental limitations on these massive blocs. Most first time visitors will be overwhelmed not only by the breathtaking beauty of the area, but also by the shear quantity of classic boulder problems in the vicinity. If you're new to Bishop and/or the Buttermilks make this area priority #1. The landings are flat and sandy, and the setting is unbelievable.
The area's approximate boundaries lie from the Stained Glass/Flyboy Area on the west end of the hillside, across and eastwards to the giant Peabody Boulders. Featured here are hundreds of great boulder problems and classics such as 'The Mandala', 'Evilution', 'High Plains Drifter', and the ever-popular 'Iron Man Traverse'. * * * * * * DO NOT CAMP or BUILD FIRES at the BIRTHDAY BOULDERS PARKING AREA * * * * * * Due to the ever-increasing popularity of the area, foot traffic and human impact has had a huge effect on the vegetation and ecology of this fragile desert environment. Please avoid all plants and pack out all trash. Make it a point to stay within the designated footpaths.
Andrew Thomas on 'Saigon'
Approximately 3.5 miles down Buttermilk Road. The boulders will be on your right, clearly visible and obvious from the road. These boulders can be accessed either by the parallel-style Peabody Parking Area or the parking loop at the Birthday Parking Area, farther up the road (take a right after the cattle guard).
Weather station 5.4 miles from here
205 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',27],['3 Stars',86],['2 Stars',67],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Buttermilks Main
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Buttermilks Main
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Buttermilks Main:
Featured Route For Buttermilks Main
Saigon Direct V8-9 7B+
: Sierra Eastside
: ... : Saigon Boulder
Though not quite as classic as Saigon, this worthy line avoids the punchy Saigon crux via a direct line of holds to the left that lead to a traverse back right into the Saigon finish. In some way it seems easier than Saigon but maybe it's because I'm short. In any case, start as for Saigon. Instead of getting the left hand pinch/sidepull and heading right, move straight up from here via a couple of possible sequences to a high pinch/edge. This is where you start to feel the air beneath you a bit...[more] Browse More Classics in CA