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Boomstick Crack
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.9 from 286
votes
Routes in Upper South Apron
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A Question of Balance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dances with Pigs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zombie Bypass T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.68574, -123.14581 |
| FA: | J. Baldwin, J. Sinclair, P. Neilson, 1961 |
| Page Views: | 12,875 total · 61/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Jun 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
To get from Broadway Ledge (where most of the lower Apron climb like Diedre finish) to the Squamish Buttress, The Ultimate Everything, or the Echelon Wall, the shortest and easiest option is this route.
The wildly thin flake is very interesting and makes the easy climbing into a bit of a unique experience. While McLane's guidebook calls it two pitches, it's easily done in one with a 70m rope and probably a 60m (although being wrong in this case would be a shame since the crux is the very first move which makes simul-climbing unappealing).
The very first move off of Broadway Ledge is the crux and requires some faith that the flake is good, but it's not hard.
Location
Start a the right side of Broadway Ledge just before it starts to head downwards. The wall is smooth and concave, but a flake provides and undercling that is sufficient to reach the top side of the same flake.
The end of this route leaves you on a trail that heads into the forest towards the Buttress and the Ultimate Everything. It's a fifteen minute hike, so untie and coil the rope before proceeding.
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