|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000', Grade IV|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Fred Beckey, Yvon Chouinard, August 1961|
|Submitted By:||Steven Lucarelli on Oct 12, 2006|
|Comments on Beckey-Chouinard||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Briar Patch
Dec 23, 2008
|Can someone describe the bivy site? Is this route doable in one push for us mere mortals? How long are the pitches on average?|
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 31, 2008
Ben Lyon wrote:
Can someone describe the bivy site?
The two bivi ledges at the top of p8 and p10 are sandy and big enough to unrope (the higher one is better in my estimation). The East Creek bivi boulder in the basin below the start is a nice camping spot; if you didn't have a tent and it rained, you could probably hide under the giant boulder (but if you're not carrying all your gear over the top- you have to return there anyway- may as well bring a shelter).
Ben Lyon wrote:
Is this route doable in one push for us mere mortals?
Maybe. Climb some 8 pitch routes on Snowpatch first and see how fast they go. The 3rd class at the start and the top of the B-C takes some time, as do the rappels.
Ben Lyon wrote:
How long are the pitches on average?
150'. Simulclimbing would be necessary to link pitches.
By Dick Stone
Jan 20, 2010
This is a AWESOME route! We did it in 2 days - hiking in from the camp area above the hut and climbing the 1st half (mostly simul climbing) the 1st day, reaching the 1st perfect bivy ledge apprx half way up by sundown. Then we finished off the route early the 2nd day leaving plenty of time for rapping down the back side.
Be patient and methodical on the descent rappels - there's many opportunites for stuck ropes and we elected shorter rappels vs. full length ones because of that, and consequently had no problems.
By Patrick Maloney
Jan 26, 2010
|To answer the question about doing this route in a day,yes it is possible. James Garrett and myself did it back in 1991, and it really is a viable option, get an early start. We started about 5 a.m. from the camp between Pidgeon and south Howser with some simul climbing after the first 5.10- pitch and not alot of hangin around. just keep motoring and bear in mind that after the fifteen or sixteen pitches you will have 6 to 800 ft of 5.5 to 5.7 climbing and six double rope raps. We got back to camp at around 7:30 PM and in late July that will leave you with an hour and a half or so of daylight. Enjoy! it really is an incredible line.|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 4, 2011
|To those who have climbed this route. At the headwall there is a crack that splits the middle of the face. The standard rout follows a crack system that goes to the left of this. The crack that splits the face is called loves lust(???) I think and it goes at 10+. Has anybody done this? It looks great and I am heading back there to repeat this route and want to try this. Any information is appreciated.|
Jun 15, 2011
|The Descent Route has now been fixed with good anchors. 11 raps w/single 60 m rope down the NE shoulder. Get good Beta at the Kain Hut before you head up. No more rapelling the frigid North face into the mind bending 'chasmic' mother of all bergschrunds!!!!!|
By Eric Fjellanger
Sep 6, 2011
This route is AMAZING. The biggest, hardest, best alpine route I've climbed. Amazing line, amazing position, amazing quality.
I climbed this with my partner over Labor Day weekend. From Appleby, just under 24 hours camp-to-camp. It was a good time of year but a couple more hours of sun would have been nice!
Some beta I think is important:
How you work the approach and descent is very conditions-dependent. We were able to ditch our crampons and ice axes at the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. Several inches of snow had fallen a day or two before, which enabled us to do this.
We did two raps from the Pigeon-Howser col into the East Creek Basin, off boulders, down to steps we had kicked the day before. I have never heard of this idea but it worked very well for us with a 70 meter rope.
I would probably not want to use a 60 meter rope on this route, the pitches are long.
I would REALLY not want to use a 60 meter rope to rap the advertised route down the NE shoulder. All the signs at the trailhead/hut/campground describe the route well, but when the sheet says a rappel is 30 meters, it means it's at least 30 meters... seems questionable to me, I was very glad we had extra rope.
Other than that it's a good rap route with one caveat: the second rappel, that says "go down the narrow ridge" really means exactly that, stay right on the narrow ridge, carefully. It was stressful in the dark and covered in snow. After that the raps were chill.
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
The rappels can be done with a 60m rope, although some are definitely rope stretchers. I wasn't sure about this, and had read conflicting reports.
At 6 AM, we did not need ice axes or crampons to descend into East Creek, nor to approach the route from East Creek, although it was slippery at times.
Recent BC parks rule changes now dictate that a bivy at the Pigeon-Howser col is allowed for this route.
We climbed Pigeon Spire the day before and left our ropes and rack at the Pigeon-Howser col, then climbed the route from Applebee in a day. This seemed to work well.
We soloed the first three pitches, and ended up climbing only 11 pitches, not counting some simul climbing at the top. In hindsight, the third pitch solo was sketchy, and I wouldn't do that again.
We brought a 4, and placed it often.
The 5.10 variation to the squeeze chimney is pretty good. It takes mostly finger sized gear and is a 60m pitch, so choose your rack accordingly.
The route is popular. Expect multiple parties.
Aug 16, 2014
A classic but serious-- if you are slow, weak or late, this thing will kick your ass, and bailing would be epic. Also note that if you have cloud cover, no moon, or both, it is VERY easy to lose your way on glaciers post-climb (esp if you are low on food or water). The people we rapped with bivvied at P-H col cos they couldn't find their way in fog back down to their tent in East Creek.
We did this route from Applebee and back in 21 hrs. B-S col was a deathtrap so we walked around the base of Snowpatch and up on south side of Pigeon to P-H col then down.
Approach took 4 1/2 hrs, route 9, getting to top and finding raps 1, rappelling (we simulrapped on one 70 with another party we met) 2 hrs and return to Applebee via icefall bypass rappels (on south face of Snowpatch) 5 hrs. I imagine that approaching and returning via B-S col you could nail this thing in prolly 16-18 hrs.
If you're slow and like carrying stuff and bivvying, I would bivvy on Pigeon-Howser col or at the base of Pigeon's west ridge. This will eliminate the need for a 2,000 foot descent post-climb into East Creek to get your stuff. Lots of good bivvy sites (and a toilet) at the base of west ridge.
We brought 2x camalots from .3-#3, a blue alien, a #4 and a few nuts.
-- find chains (impossible) or cairn-marked slings with a mallion (slung around a solid hunk of rock) just below north edge of summit
-- rap about 15 meters or down climb 5.5 then walk another 10 to a huge slung block.
-- rap off this over two blocky edges to chains (about 15 m). From here on all raps are chains.
-- go about 10meters further (scramble or rap) to find more chains on skier's left of ridge
-- rap ALONG RIDGE DO NOT GO DOWN EITHER SIDE for about 25-30 m
-- rap straight down a corner (this will be on climber's right as you are rapping down ridge) 30m
-- rap down to a ledge 25 m
-- rap or scramble to climbers' left sideways along ledge about 30m
-- do 3-4 20-30m raps straight down; last one gets you over the 'schrund