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The Big Hose, South Howser Tower
WI4-
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in South Howser Tower
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Beckey-Chouinard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Hose, South Howser Tower, The T WI4- |
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East Shoulder-East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c AI2-3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Jon Krakaur, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 8,941 total · 55/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Trout on Nov 28, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
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HISTORY
Jon Krakauer soloed this super-direct ice gully on his way up to do the first solo ascent of the Devils Thumb in Alaska. First done in May, but I've heard reports of later ascents.
APPROACH
Hike in via Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and the Vowell Neve. Use the map in the photos section below to help with planning.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
The first pitch crosses the 'schrund. About five more to the summit. A couple of eighty-degree bulges on the lower pitches lead to a chockstone/vertical pillar crux. Check out the marked photo.
DESCENT
On an early season ascent, be ready to descend the hose with V-threads, etc. It may be very hard to find the summer rappels under the ice.
EQUIPMENT
Thermometer because long northern days cause dangerously warm nights. Bring all the gear for ice, some roch gear too. You might get past the bergschrund rappelling with a single 70 meter rope. But that can change.
MOUNTAIN AND ROAD CONDITIONS
The road in should be open by some time in May. Road conditions do get reported sometimes by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides .
It is possible to stay in the hut before the wardens are on duty for the summer. Neither heat nor water in the sinks, but the propane lights and stoves can be turned on. Contact BC Parks for an update.
Chic Scott did the second traverse of the Bugaboos to Roger's Pass ski mountaineering route. He has this to say in his outstanding book Ice Fields and Summits, 1994:
"The road is normally plowed for 17 km. From there it is another 25 km on skis or by snowmobile to the CMH Bugaboo Lodge. A ski ascent of 700 vertical meters and 5 km up the Bugaboo Glacier takes you to Conrad Kain Hut."
"A very good run (on April/May snowpack) can be had down the Bugaboo Glacier, starting along the left side of the glacier and finishing on the right side into the valley."
Too much information? Not if you want to find that window of opportunity when it might be possible to combine an ice route with a ski descent.
Jon Krakauer soloed this super-direct ice gully on his way up to do the first solo ascent of the Devils Thumb in Alaska. First done in May, but I've heard reports of later ascents.
APPROACH
Hike in via Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and the Vowell Neve. Use the map in the photos section below to help with planning.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
The first pitch crosses the 'schrund. About five more to the summit. A couple of eighty-degree bulges on the lower pitches lead to a chockstone/vertical pillar crux. Check out the marked photo.
DESCENT
On an early season ascent, be ready to descend the hose with V-threads, etc. It may be very hard to find the summer rappels under the ice.
EQUIPMENT
Thermometer because long northern days cause dangerously warm nights. Bring all the gear for ice, some roch gear too. You might get past the bergschrund rappelling with a single 70 meter rope. But that can change.
MOUNTAIN AND ROAD CONDITIONS
The road in should be open by some time in May. Road conditions do get reported sometimes by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides .
It is possible to stay in the hut before the wardens are on duty for the summer. Neither heat nor water in the sinks, but the propane lights and stoves can be turned on. Contact BC Parks for an update.
Chic Scott did the second traverse of the Bugaboos to Roger's Pass ski mountaineering route. He has this to say in his outstanding book Ice Fields and Summits, 1994:
"The road is normally plowed for 17 km. From there it is another 25 km on skis or by snowmobile to the CMH Bugaboo Lodge. A ski ascent of 700 vertical meters and 5 km up the Bugaboo Glacier takes you to Conrad Kain Hut."
"A very good run (on April/May snowpack) can be had down the Bugaboo Glacier, starting along the left side of the glacier and finishing on the right side into the valley."
Too much information? Not if you want to find that window of opportunity when it might be possible to combine an ice route with a ski descent.
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