What's New in The Far East

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New in The Far East in the last month:
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Tal M Sep 28, 2025 Stinky Boots 5.10d ● Active nest of very large hornets in the tree near the base of the climb - climb at your own risk View Comment
Tal M Sep 28, 2025 Kinky Boots 5.10d ● Active nest of very large hornets in the tree near the base of the climb - climb at your own risk. I certai… View Comment
Paul Teiber Jun 29, 2025 Filthy Sanchez 5.11b ● There is (as of June 2025) a large, round wasp nest up and left of 5th bolt right on the arete face. It ble… View Comment
Cdybear Jun 10, 2025 Manked 5.9- ● The guide book calls this a "death choss corner." It totally is. Movements are fine. You can put gear all o… View Comment
Aaron Madey Mar 3, 2025 Montezuma's Toe (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c) The bottom of Montezuma's Toe. ● Dang remember when there were trees on the east side? View Comment
chris tregge Dec 17, 2024 Orange Crush 5.9+ ● Don't really get the hype for this one. YMMV View Comment
Luka Auld Oct 17, 2024 King Kong 5.11a ● Weird techy climbing. Finding what holds to grab was the crux of this thing for me and the angle allowed fo… View Comment
Zach Sherman Oct 7, 2024 Emotional Content 5.10b ● Mantle at the end can be extra interesting in 90 deg heat while sweating in the sun! haha, def adds to the… View Comment
Nathan Weber Sep 8, 2024 September Hero 5.10a ● The description is spot on here. If you are looking for 'good' (sustained and interesting) 5.10, you need… View Comment
Nathan Weber Sep 8, 2024 Orange Crush 5.9+ ● It's worth the walk to the end of the crag for this. One of my favorites at the Ranch. Definitely mostly… View Comment
Nathan Weber Sep 8, 2024 Montezuma's Toe 5.8+ ● I'd second (third) the comments below about the final move. While not difficult from a strength standpoint… View Comment
Dane Coffey May 20, 2024 El Chupacabra 5.10b ● The start does take some figuring out, but it is pretty enjoyable after that. A couple mantles to the ledg… View Comment
Chase Webb Mar 12, 2024 Gracie's Eight 5.8+ ● As of 3/9/2024 there is a rock stack at the start allowing you to eliminate the first crux. View Comment
Giorgia Auteri Jan 30, 2024 Orange Crush 5.9+ ● I loved this route. No line to wait (it was a warm winter day) and the sunset lighting had me orange crushi… View Comment
Andrew Olivier Nov 6, 2023 First Time Up 5.8+ ● I wish I had saved 2x #4s for the second half of this climb. I left the widest section on the slab with ju… View Comment
James Weiss Sep 17, 2023 Pieces of Eight 5.11b ● The first half is very sustained. There are several technical cruxes and I found the hardest section about… View Comment
James Weiss Sep 17, 2023 Filthy Sanchez 5.11b ● Going around the arete midway up seemed off route and then I read the description. Going direct the whole w… View Comment
Elijah Korneffel May 31, 2023 First Time Up 5.8+ ● Had to finish Gracie's Eight for a mild traverse to drop a TR to do the trad route. (not into trad yet). Gr… View Comment
Elijah Korneffel May 31, 2023 Gracie's Eight 5.8+ ● My opinion: this is a rough start safety-wise due to the rocks at the base of the start. It is a bit spicy… View Comment
Elijah Korneffel May 31, 2023 Kinky Boots 5.10d ● People mentioned (I agree) this is not a 10 unless you use the tree as beta. I'd like another stab at it to… View Comment
Elijah Korneffel May 31, 2023 Stinky Boots 5.10d ● Need to come back for the tick. The beginning pumped me. Once my feet were solid need to get over a high kn… View Comment
Joseph Schmitz May 10, 2023 Orange Crush 5.9+ ● This route is the Instagram model of routes; it's pretty but has very little to offer. The first 3 clips ar… View Comment
Rivet Daigre May 1, 2023 Plumb Bob 5.11a ● I hate to do this but I'm gonna add my name to the list of haters; IMO this is just not a good climb. With… View Comment
Brennan VanDyke Apr 22, 2023 Supersoul Sureshot 5.12c ● While the rest of HCR is usually softer in the grades, I don’t think that applies to this route. Felt like… View Comment
Brennan VanDyke Apr 9, 2023 Alesia 5.11d PG13 ● Ok…. This routes not great, but it’s not THAT bad. Knock knock is a fun approach to it, and the roof is so… View Comment
Rees W Nov 17, 2022 Supersoul Sureshot 5.12c ● Beta intensive and gorgeous face climb moves. Used a sick right foot backstep to hit the last right hand ga… View Comment
Nick Hartman Oct 6, 2022 Horseshoes and Hand Grenades 5.11a ● Fantastic technical climbing down low, was sequency for me. The top is an easy jug pull. View Comment
Michael S May 31, 2022 Alesia 5.11d PG13 ● Knock Knock's anchors has a perma draw on the right side to continue on up Alesia. Then just clip the long… View Comment
North Shore Chalker Apr 26, 2022 King Kong (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c) My Boop starting up King Kong to connect into Alessia. ● But also I am probably too far left to actually be on King Kong, and ended up having to do an awful travers… View Comment
North Shore Chalker Apr 22, 2022 Alesia 5.11d PG13 ● The description for this route is silly. Not sure why anyone would bother going up the poopy 5.8 trad route… View Comment
David DiMauro Oct 24, 2021 Stinky Boots 5.10d ● This route felt slightly harder and more frightening than the classic .11 around the corner. View Comment
Alixius Roosenitus Oct 18, 2021 Horseshoes and Hand Grenades 5.11a ● How fun! Felt more like a one move wonder but definitely worth climbing View Comment
Michael Johnson Sep 28, 2021 Montezuma's Toe 5.8+ ● I actually think this is one of the worst routes on the east side. A 5.8 climber can get lost going for th… View Comment
Bob Ruzich Sep 14, 2021 Horseshoes & Hand Gre… (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c) The anchors...no chains or hooks here. ● Thanks Zane. That was my intent. It's always nice to know what the anchors are like. View Comment
Joe Ernest Sep 12, 2021 Horseshoes and Hand Grenades 5.11a ● youtu.be/swRMZsXGMaQ I was lucky to be able to project and work out the beta on this route on a Thursday.… View Comment
Zane Winter Sep 12, 2021 Horseshoes & Hand Gre… (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c) The anchors...no chains or hooks here. ● Seems like relevant information in an area known for full sport anchors. View Comment

What's New in The Far East

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