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Roadeo

Name: Roadeo
Rating: 1.2

5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Roadeo

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Roadeo S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Type:	Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
GPS:	40.1863, -105.3334
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	712 total · 5/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Jul 3, 2013
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays Details

Per Climbing Puerto Rico: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.

From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.

During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.

codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…

Description

This is a good route with a few brief sections to stop and make you think. The holds are typically good and incut. The rock is generally clean.

Though the Gillett guidebook never specifically estimates the risk of the flake that the 5th bolt is in coming off, it felt 'overstated' as a risk, but the consequences, if it did, can not be overstated. There would be death. I chose to put in gear just above the 4th bolt and then skip the 5th bolt, where the climbing is not difficult anyway. The huge flake is not going to move due to simple body weight. It would be nearly certain to hold even the most brutal lead-fall, but not 100% certain, I did not clip it to risk testing it.

Overall, the route is actually quite good and not dangerous in my opinion, even eschewing the 5th bolt for lower gear.

Location

This route lies on the lower West face of the formation, within 10 meters of the road. Climb past the bolt line to the anchors.

Protection

This route goes past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The first bolt is quite high off the ground (5.7 to approach it), and the 5th bolt is in a slightly questionable, large flake. The anchors up top are chains to rap from.

Per Charles Vernon: as of August 2024, there are 6 bolts. The 6th (newest) bolt is in the vicinity of the small wires that Gillett mentions in his guidebook. A #0.5 Camalot or similar is nice to have if you plan to skip the 5th bolt.