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Tyro Rumpus 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
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Submitted By: jcomp on Jun 3, 2007

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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux of this route is placing gear. Overall the moves are challenging and consistent but difficult gear placements makes them all the more scary! Here is one description: Start by picking a start. Climb either side of the prow to a blocky stance. The original line (left side) is more aesthetic, and easier to get off of the ground, but more tedious to protect (.5in to 1.5in) than the variation, which is harder to get off of the ground, but easier to protect (3in to 4in). At the blocky stance, the line tends left, past semi-overhangs, to the base of a long, right-angling, diagonal crack (2.25in). Don’t take this crack (Bro Frontiers Right / 5.7), but instead, continue angling up and left, aiming for the middle (dark waterstreak) of the upper headwall. This upper headwall is characterized by sporadic pro, and committing moves off of good stances, spine-tingling stuff. Definitely worth the effort!

Location 

See Lohn Guide if you really want to find it.

Protection 

Small stuff. Micro Stoppers at some points or run it out. The are very solid spots but they are far between!


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