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Stromberg 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: G. Arias, J. Briz, M. Pedro 1986
Page Views: 1,264
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Jun 12, 2013

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Description 

Stromberg is a nice 5 pitch route that will take you to the top of Gorro Frigi. Definitely head over here if the line on Badalona is long.

P1: Follow the yellow bolts as the meander left then righ then back left to the bolt anchors 25m up. The book calls this 5b (5.8) but it's probably closer to 5.7. The climbing is very enjoyable however.

P2: Continue up along the straight line of yellow bolts over very moderate terrain. This pitch is a bit of a snoozer. The book calls this 4b (5.5) but it is certainly easier than that. 25m

P3: This pitch has some nice varied climbing on it as you surmount a small bulging roof. Bolts are exceptionally close to one another through the crux. The book calls the crux of this pitch 5c (5.9) but it is probably 5.7+ or 5.8. 35m

P4: Another short very easy pitch 20m or less of 5.3-5.4 climbing to arrive at the base of the summit bulge. At this point it is possible to simply traverse (walk) around to the left to skip the summit if the last pitch is too difficult.

P5: A very short one or two move wonder to get you up to the summit. Move up and right from the belay using the new yellow bolts. This move is a little bit tricky and the book calls this 6a (5.10a) but it's probably more 5.9. There are two bolts before the crux only a few feet from one another it's trivial to clip both before committing yourself. After the difficulty continue up and left to belay from the summit cross. 20-25m

The descent we did was a huge mess, I strongly advise bringing double ropes, though we made it down with a single 70m rope. The descent is to your 11 O'clock as you face the cross with the route to your back. The book recommends the via ferrata. We rapped from the new pink spray painted station and it was a big mistake. The green station may provide a better option. There is a lot of loose rock on top and it is nearly impossible to use these stations without raining it down on anyone who is below you.

Location 

The start of the climb is located up a drainage ditch that runs through some trees to the climber's right of Gorro Frigi. Leave the access path and walk 30-50 feet up through the tree and bush filled ditch along the rock. There is a yellow bolt for anchoring the belayer a few feet off the ground.

Protection 

The climb is very well protected with an almost excessive number of bolts. Bring 13-14 draws plus whatever you plan to use for the bolted anchors if you plan on clipping all the bolts. In some spots bolts appear less than 3 feet apart. Bolts are all very new and are painted yellow for visibility. Anchors consist of a minimum of 3 bolts with rap rings and in one instance include a total of 9 bolts due to several generations of bolts being present.


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By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Sep 3, 2014

Great route! Talk to Marcel at the campsite for beta or but the (correct) guidebook before you get to the Monastery (they don't have the area's edition). Follow the Yellow Painted Bolts!

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