Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Cardonna (april 1987)
Page Views: 3,207 total · 51/month
Shared By: Miyako on Apr 3, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A popular and easy route. The most difficult part is at the last portion of the third pitch but it is well protected. Another iron cross is waiting for you at the summit.
Orientation is East
P1 ( 5.6 ) 115 f.
P2 (5.7) 100 f.
P3 (5.9) 65 f. (crux approaching the last third climbing a short vertical part)
P4 (5.7) 115 f.
P5 (easy 5.6 with a short section 5.8 in the middle) 115 f.

Location

From the Monastary, take the Sant Joan funicular to the upper station and follow the St. Jerome’s cap. At the bottom of the Phrygian cap you will see an iron cross about ten meters from the walking path. Few meters left of the cross you can spot the first green bolt.

Protection

10 quickdraws

Photos

Rick Ziegler
Bishop, CA
 
Rick Ziegler   Bishop, CA
 
Outstanding rock quality. Mostly easy climbing but a fun day out in a beautiful spot. See my note about the descent from this formation. Apr 24, 2014
Daniel Joder
Barcelona, ES
Daniel Joder   Barcelona, ES
Just climbed this today with Colton Lawson. Great route and we had a perfect day! Some observations...the green paint on the bolts is there but chipping off--and the bolts are VERY hard to see. From the tourist trail, start about 10-15 feet left of the iron cross, climb slowly, and look carefully. This is not bolted every three feet like a Boulder Canyon sport route, but the bolts are spaced just about right for safe and fun climbing. The crux is very well-protected with three bolts on the short headwall (V+, or 5.9-ish). We used a single 70m rope and descended via four rappels down the fairly low-angle south side--down a route called Via Anna Guinovart (Google it for a photo--a great 5.4-ish route to Gorro Frigi's summit). From the summit, the start of the rappels takes you down a slot on the south side with two medium-sized trees. After that, stay on the slab as you do the raps--nice well-bolted stations every 25-30 meters. Don't be tempted to reduce the number of raps by angling into the brushy gully where the old via farrata USED TO BE (it has been removed!)--just go all the way to the ground. Nov 21, 2017
Daniel Joder
Barcelona, ES
Daniel Joder   Barcelona, ES
Another thing...you can find topos and pictures of this route and many others in the region if you Google the escalatronics.com website. They are in Catalan, but the pictures and topos will certainly help even if...no pots llegir catala! Apr 20, 2018
Daniel Joder
Barcelona, ES
Daniel Joder   Barcelona, ES
Update on how to descend from Gorro Frigi...What I wrote above will work fine (four raps, south side, 70m rope) but you may have to leave a sling in the bolts on the first rap off the top as there are no rings. Now, here is what most do: There is a two-bolt rap station with ring on the east side of the summit that will get you down in two raps if you are using 60m double ropes. This deposits you conveniently in the steep gully you will scramble down to get back to the tourist trail. As I rapped down this the other day I saw other rap stations on this face so I think you may be able to do this in three raps with a single 70m rope--but not confirmed 'til I get back up there and try it. May 25, 2018
Bill W
Portland, OR
 
Bill W   Portland, OR
 
3 raps with a 70m rope from the SE side made it to the gully no problem. 6 days ago