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Lighthouse Tower

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Lighthouse Tower Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Apr 11, 2002
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Paul Kejla descending after an ascent of Lonely Vi...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Besides Ancient Art, Lighthouse Tower has perhaps the coolest summit in the Moab area. Located above the Big Bend recreation area, the tower has a relatively short approach and can easily be done in a couple of hours car to car. A number of excellent routes ascend the tower, each requiring an exciting mantle onto the summit block that must be reversed (there are no anchors on the summit).

Getting There 

Drive about 7 miles east of Moab on the River Road. Look for a small pullout on the left, river side of the road just past a large boulder with lots of calcite on one side. Park here then walk down the road (in the Moab direction) looking for a good trail marked by an obvious metal post. The approach takes about 20 minutes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.2 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lighthouse Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lighthouse Tower:
Lonely Vigil   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   
Poseidon Adventure   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 4 pitches, 310'   
Iron Maiden   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lighthouse Tower

Featured Route For Lighthouse Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Iron Maiden.

Iron Maiden 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13  Utah : Moab Area : ... : Lighthouse Tower
Long considered one of the true desert tower testpieces. A little bit spicy, but well protected for the cruxes. p1 12-. Do a long pitch that runs the whole gamut. This is a cruxy pitch. Climb a chimney and easy corner until it slams shut, requiring some hard (10+/11-) stemming and face climbing with pro at and below your feet. Get to a stance, pass a possible belay on your left and launch into the 12- business by a new bolt. Pass the bolt and then hand traverse right around the arete to a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Lighthouse Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: My buddy snapped this great shot on the double rop...
My buddy snapped this great shot on the double rop...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a good shot up the great .10 stem box. It'...
Here is a good shot up the great .10 stem box. It'...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lighthouse reflection with Big Bend Butte to the l...
Lighthouse reflection with Big Bend Butte to the l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave nearing the top of the Lighthouse
Dave nearing the top of the Lighthouse
Rock Climbing Photo: Pavel Kejla on the short 5.6 pitch that accesses t...
Pavel Kejla on the short 5.6 pitch that accesses t...

Comments on Lighthouse Tower Add Comment
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By TomKingsbury
Dec 5, 2006
Only need a single 70 meter to rappel off of the Lighthouse.
By Joe A
From: Moab, Utah
Jan 30, 2012
Lighthouses rule.
By Bob Dobalina
Oct 8, 2012
Bring TWO (60 meter) ropes to get down the quick and easy way. Or you can mess with the hanging rap station and do multiple raps down 'Lonely Vigil' with a single rope if you want.
By Kelbad Henderson
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 11, 2013
We lost a phone on the way to Lonely Vigil on Tuesday. If anyone stumbles across it, please shoot me a PM. A head cold plus Kleenex in the same pocket caused the issue.

It may be toast after the rain on Thurs/Friday, but then again, I may be able to retrieve the photos.

Thanks for your help,

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