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Klinger Spring

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(7) Gods and Monsters Wall 

Klinger Spring Rock Climbing 

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Location: 45.4098, -121.57029 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: elmo mecsko on Oct 20, 2014


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Klinger Spring cliff is of the same rock band as Pete's Pile, but features much more developed routes, including 30+ sport climbs, some mixed climbs and dozens of trad routes. Most of the climbs are a full 30m long, and can be quite sustained. The majority of the climbs run in the 5.9 to 5.10+ range. Klinger Spring cliff is in a sensitive area of the Mt. Hood National Forest, and has the potential to face restrictions and possible closure by the Forest Service if not treated respectfully. Please tread lightly on the trail and at belay areas, and feel free to lend a hand in the maintenance of this beautiful spot.
Please respect the plants growing along the base of the crag. This is a sensitive area with an abundance of wildflowers & mosses. Dogs are welcome, but if your dog is excitable & wants to run back & forth along the base, dig holes, etc., please keep it on a leash. Don't wander too far into the brush in the late spring/early summer, as there are tick here.
Routes with fixed ropes, or with red webbing on first bolt are projects, please do not climb them.

Getting There 

Klinger Springs is located off of HWY 35 on the east side of Mt. Hood. It is about an hour and twenty minutes from Portland, going through either Hood River or Government Camp.
To get to Klinger Springs from Hood River, follow HWY 35 south for 23 miles. Just after crossing a river labeled “E Fork Hood River” there is a large pullout on the east side of the highway (the trailhead of Zigzag Trail). Park here.
The trail goes up and to the right, and then switchbacks to the north. About 100 yards up the trail, you will reach a small trail that goes up and right (east). Follow this trail as it switchbacks up the hill. After about 10 minutes, you will come into a large scree field. Continue on the trail when it goes back into the woods and up to the base of the cliff. Routes are listed from the top of the trail heading to the right (south).

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.3 miles from here

63 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Klinger Spring

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Klinger Spring:
GSR (Good Sport Route)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 95'   (4) Wolf Point
Yeti's Betty   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   (7) Gods and Monsters Wall
Blue Grouse   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   (3) The Aviary
Belly of the Beast   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 65'   (7) Gods and Monsters Wall
Wolf Point   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 80'   (4) Wolf Point
Cerberus   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 95'   (2) Land of Shadows
Nosferatu   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 120'   (7) Gods and Monsters Wall
Point of Diminishing Returns (PDR)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 95'   (5) The Leaning Tower Area
Lean on Me   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 75'   (5) The Leaning Tower Area
Roofatopia Dope   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 90'   (6) Roof Utopia
Solstice   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   (5) The Leaning Tower Area
Signs Preceding the End of the World   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   (2) Land of Shadows
Kestrel (no need to speed)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   (3) The Aviary
Osprey   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   (3) The Aviary
The Sphinx   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 110'   (7) Gods and Monsters Wall
Power Child   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 115'   (7) Gods and Monsters Wall
Getting It Up For The Crack Of Dawn   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   (7) Gods and Monsters Wall
Equinox   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 100'   (5) The Leaning Tower Area
Goddess of Virtue    5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 40'   (7) Gods and Monsters Wall
You, Me, and Everyone We Know   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   (3) The Aviary
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Klinger Spring

Featured Route For Klinger Spring
Rock Climbing Photo: Reed Fee heading up Belly of the Beast.

Belly of the Beast 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Oregon : Mt. Hood : ... : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall
Classic hand jamming up the beautiful crack on the right side of the Dragon. Follow crack to the roof, exit roof to the left up to the shared anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Photos of Klinger Spring Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John Inglis getting the First Free Ascent of  Godd...
John Inglis getting the First Free Ascent of Godd...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool and shady
Cool and shady
Rock Climbing Photo: Directions and trail map to Klinger Spring
BETA PHOTO: Directions and trail map to Klinger Spring

Comments on Klinger Spring Add Comment
Show which comments
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 24, 2014
Nice catch. I updated it to the correct link, and listed his other book with it.
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Oct 24, 2014
Micah, I believe Tim gave all copies of NWOR to Mazamas (?) talk to Adam Clinton Baylor.
By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
Sep 15, 2015
To add to driving directions: The trailhead is at a pullout on HWY 35 north of the two nearby campgrounds (Sherwood and Nottingham). Unfortunately, there is another E Fork Hood River sign south of the campgrounds with a pullout on the West side of the road (which is wrong).

Also, the correct pullout currently (September 2015) does not say zigzag trailhead. It does say "clinger spring". There is a map there which does include the zigzag trail, but it does not appear to start here.
By Reed Fee
From: White Salmon WA
Jul 22, 2016
That most certainly is the start of the Zig Zag trail. I'm not sure it says that on the little sign board but it is. Clinger Spring would be shown on the map that is seasonally affixed to the sign board. Almost no one actually parks there to hike the zig zag trail as it is a short steep trail that eventually intersects surveyors ridge.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Aug 31, 2016
New guidebook for Klinger Spring.

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