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Routes in (5) The Leaning Tower Area

Delicate Sound of Falling, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dog Day Getaway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Equinox S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lean on Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moss Covered Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Point of Diminishing Returns (PDR) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solstice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: John Inglis
Page Views: 302 total · 6/month
Shared By: elmo mecsko on Oct 24, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Follow the beautiful crack which leads through several overhangs in smooth pink rock. Climb this crack through the buldges, stepping left onto the face just below the final roof. Float your way across this blank face (bolt) to the arete out left. Follow bolts strait up to the anchors.

Location

This route starts about 20' to the right of Equinox.

Protection

Standard rack and quickdraws

Photos

Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
  5.11-
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
  5.11-
This route is awesome, my favorite at Klinger! It starts 5.8 on jugs, then thins a little and becomes 5.9, and then you enter the small roof and it becomes 5.10, all on gear. Then comes the crux, a bolt protected nearly blank slab under a huge roof. The crux looks totally implausible, but there are at least two completely different and reasonable ways to do it.

Judging by all the moss at the bottom, this route doesn't get a lot of action, but it should. The gear is bomber and straightforward, and the 5.11 crux move is bolt protected. The gear section is easier at 5.10, and you can French free the crux by pulling on a quickdraw, so worst case it's 5.10 A0 :) Get on it!

Also, altho perhaps sketchy, you can get a top rope on it by traversing left to right and jamming the mossy cracks between this route and Equinox to the left. The mossy cracks will get you to the second bolt on the left edge of the crux, and then it's one more 5.9 bolt to the anchors. I did this while on top rope via the Equinox anchors and the TR was good enough to get me to the first crack. After that it becomes leading, given the increasing pendulum potential. The moss leading was not bad, probably 5.8, but seemed a little harder since I had to clean the crack with a nut tool before jamming or placing gear, and brush the face holds. Could be cool to clean those cracks and create a new mixed route called /Delicate Sound of Top Roping/ :D Sep 26, 2017
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
  5.11a
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
  5.11a
This thing is legit - great climbing! The anchor could use a little love. It's currently two metolious rap hangers each with a single quicklink so the rope gets badly twisted when its pulled through after the rap. It could use a second quicklink or better yet a rap ring added below each of the existing links. 1 day ago

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