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Sunset North
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Broken Arrow 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Marvin Webb, Ronnie Shehee - 1981
Page Views: 2,478
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jul 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Mike on Broken Arrow, Sunset Park, TN

Description 

Broken Arrow is a dynamite climb, stiff for the grade. It's well-protected, the rock is great and there's nice variety along the way. With relatively few opportunities for rest stances, this physically demanding route will test your stamina.

Starting in a left-facing open-book corner, stem/jam/layback your way up to a roof. Moving right out from under the roof, climb a steep ramp up and right to a ledge, then straight up to anchors at the top.

NOTE: There is an alternate start (5.9) and several alternate finishes; see the Dixie Cragger for details.

Location 

Starts about 10' left of The White Wall. Rap from ring anchors.

Protection 

Small to medium cams and passive pro; bolted anchors. NOTE: because this route finishes significantly to the right of the start, toproping is problematical. If you're going to do it, leave one or more directionals to protect against pendulum falls.


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By Karissa
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2016

CONDITION REPORT 
Fantastic route!!! Not sure if others have noticed this, but the last large block that you gain to reach the anchors is sketch. The entire thing basically vibrates/sings when you give it a good rap of the knuckles. Pulled up on it a bit, it shifted slightly. It's fridge size in length, not as thick though. Looks like it's sandwiched between two rotten layers of rock. I chose to traverse way right to a small tree and gain a more solid block. Just a heads up. Don't let it scare you off it, it's avoidable and the route is spectacular climbing. Takes tons of gear.
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 8, 2007

Cowabunga! This is a real workout. My partner said the crux for him was the move up from under the roof, but I thought the lower section was harder.
By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010

Crux mid way protects with small gear.
By paul.adams.3
From: Knoxville, TN
Sep 27, 2016

Climbed this after a solid rain and the entire route was dry except for the move out of the roof - made for a heady finish! classic line