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Jam or Slam Rock (SW Face)
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Amionit TR 
Cranking Skills or Hospital Bills T 
Fire or Retire T 

Amionit 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Peter Hayes, 1991
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: C Miller on May 17, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Amionit (5.12b TR), Joshua Tree NP

Description 

This constantly evolving line tackles the face/arete just right of Fire or Retire and is still in the process of cleaning up, perhaps one reason it has never been bolted.

Location 

Just right of Fire or Retire.

Protection 

TR


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By dnaiscool
Apr 18, 2015

To the right of Fire or Retire is a cranky route I put up in '91 called

"Amionit",.12b

The name is a question:

"Am I on it?"

Just below the crux it gets hard to see the feet, and this was the question I was asking my belayer as I probed blindly for a key left foot.

If you are out at this crag, and you are up for some really hard vertical face climbing, then try this route. It ascends the blobs and dark stone just right of the blunt arete seen in the photos to the climber's right. I'd give it a couple of stars, but...I'm sort of partial to it, right?

Ethics of the day dictated no rap bolting, and the flakes on the route were too fragile to hook, so we left it as a TR. If ethics have evolved, then I think it would be a proud lead with 3-4 bolts in it to make it safe...but that's for others to decide. The character of this climb is quite different from the other routes on this rock.

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