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You Don't Know Jack
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.3 from 19
votes
Routes in Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area
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Babes-A-Boodle aka RepoMan S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Blast From The Past S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Decaf S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disconnected S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Espresso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Holey Moley S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Raven, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Red Devil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Should be Called Do What? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tough Choices S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Voodoo Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Voodoo Lounge S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Will Power S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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You Don't Know Jack S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport |
| GPS: | 34.66528, -116.97734 |
| FA: | Jack Marshall |
| Page Views: | 5,744 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Art Morimitsu on Dec 19, 2006 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Shares the same start as Red Devil (5.12b).
Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, From here reach the well-chalked jug and a fingerlock, pull the lip and stand up to a small undercling, reach up to the bigger undercling and then go left to good holds.
This is essentially where you leave Red Devil, moving left entails some strenuous core movement, continue up and left with balancy lieback moves to another fingerlock and twistlock into a good flake, move right to crimpers until you can reach the leftmost sidepull of Red Devil, creep upwards on the occasional good hold and a bunch of nothing to the anchor.
A better route than Red Devil. A bit longer with much better movement, plus you have to do the best/crux moves of both routes.
4 Comments