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Routes in Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area

Babes-A-Boodle aka RepoMan S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blast From The Past S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Decaf S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disconnected S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Espresso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holey Moley S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raven, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Devil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Should be Called Do What? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tough Choices S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Voodoo Lounge S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Will Power S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
You Don't Know Jack S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, Dave Sprenger
Page Views: 5,125 total, 38/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Short well protected and fun. Crux is between 1st & 2nd bolt.

Location

Just right of large roof - big square flake at second bolt. Rap down.

Southern CA sport climbing guide - route # 865

Protection

4 bolts to closed-shut anchors.

Clif Clap  
 
Pumpier than it looks. Awesome bouldery sequences but I didn't have it dialed through and volunteered a fall at the fourth bolt rather than blow the clip. Well-protected though and good feet. May 20, 2013
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
Really cool layback move midway up. don't over grip everything and you can avoid the pump. Apr 1, 2013
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
Fun climb, nice hand jam rest after the crux. Oh yeah, and stemming is off (x2) despite what all the videos on YouTube show! Nov 21, 2011
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10b/c
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10b/c
Fun climb. I specifically liked how the flake was bolted into the wall. Almost got an onsight, but underestimated how pumpy it was. I fell right before the anchor :( Mar 6, 2010
Good video Jan 3, 2007
duh
 
duh  
 
Sam and I had only been bolting in the area for a few weeks when Mike, Mari and Bruckman came out. We only had a dozen or so routes, mostly 11's and 12's. They asked where the 5.9 warm up was, Expresso was the easiest route bolted at the time, so I pointed to it. A little while later, they came back and stated "That thing is not 5.9!" I kinda chuckled and said, "Well... 5.9+". Expresso remained the easiest route in the area and rated 5.9+ for several years. Jan 3, 2007
veritus
redlands, ca
  5.10c
veritus   redlands, ca
  5.10c
Stemming is OFF!!!! Jan 2, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10c
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10c
Here is a short movie with Will S doing Espresso in Dec. of '06. QuickTime 7 required.
fishproducts.com/movies/New… Dec 27, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.9+
C Miller   CA  
  5.9+
A tricky section down low seems to be the crux but holding on for the duration is the real crux. Dec 18, 2006