Type: Sport
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 2,768 total · 18/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 17, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, from here reach the well chalked jug and a fingerlock, Crux is pulling the lip and standing up to an undercling. Above you'll find varied moves on crimpers and jugs. The route uses the first 2 chain draws (the remaining chain draws up and left belong to the route "You don't know Jack").

Location

In the middle of the roof left of Espresso (5.10c).

Protection

Chain Anchors, 2 chain draws (the remaining chain draws up and left belong to the route "You don't know Jack"). 3 hangers for draws.

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.12a
C Miller   CA  
  5.12a
The powerful moves getting stood up above the roof are the crux but a sequence of thin edges higher can be tough if pumped. An area favorite, even if it's a little on the short side. Dec 18, 2006
Art Morimitsu
Huntington Beach, Ca
  5.12b
Art Morimitsu   Huntington Beach, Ca
  5.12b
Hah! I fell off those moves above the crux after the fourth clip and had to repeat the route the day after for a Redpoint. Agree that those moves are still plenty difficult. Dec 19, 2006
duh
duh  
Red Devil was the second sport route bolted at NJC. Dec 27, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.12a/b
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.12a/b
There is some trickery available on this rig, just before starting the crux that can let you recover a bit if you milk it (you'll figure it out). Turning the lip itself wasn't that bad once you figure out the sequence. Nov 15, 2010
Aaron Cassebeer
Tehachapi, CA
  5.12
Aaron Cassebeer   Tehachapi, CA
  5.12
I find the crux to be pretty difficult if you're tall. Although I do agree it's easier than Double Kneebar Ranch, so the grade of 12b seems correct for the area. Jan 11, 2015
Awesome bouldery start on big holds with a tough clip at the 2nd bolt. Crux move turning the lip was tricky and kinda reachy; didn't manage a send this trip but maybe next time. Apr 10, 2017
Alex S
Ridgecrest CA
Alex S   Ridgecrest CA
  • Condition Report*

The quicklink connecting the chain to the hanger on the first permadraw(the one at the lip of the roof) is in bad shape with a notch worn more then half way thru the link where it has been rubbing against the hanger. Dec 11, 2017