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Routes in Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area

Babes-A-Boodle aka RepoMan S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blast From The Past S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Decaf S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disconnected S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Espresso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holey Moley S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raven, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Devil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Should be Called Do What? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tough Choices S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Voodoo Lounge S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Will Power S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
You Don't Know Jack S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 2,179 total, 16/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 17, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, from here reach the well chalked jug and a fingerlock, Crux is pulling the lip and standing up to an undercling. Above you'll find varied moves on crimpers and jugs. The route uses the first 2 chain draws (the remaining chain draws up and left belong to the route "You don't know Jack").

Location

In the middle of the roof left of Espresso (5.10c).

Protection

Chain Anchors, 2 chain draws (the remaining chain draws up and left belong to the route "You don't know Jack"). 3 hangers for draws.
Awesome bouldery start on big holds with a tough clip at the 2nd bolt. Crux move turning the lip was tricky and kinda reachy; didn't manage a send this trip but maybe next time. Apr 10, 2017
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.12
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.12
I find the crux to be pretty difficult if you're tall. Although I do agree it's easier than Double Kneebar Ranch, so the grade of 12b seems correct for the area. Jan 11, 2015
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.12a/b
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.12a/b
There is some trickery available on this rig, just before starting the crux that can let you recover a bit if you milk it (you'll figure it out). Turning the lip itself wasn't that bad once you figure out the sequence. Nov 15, 2010
duh
duh  
Red Devil was the second sport route bolted at NJC. Dec 27, 2006
Art Morimitsu
Huntington Beach, Ca
 
Art Morimitsu   Huntington Beach, Ca
 
Hah! I fell off those moves above the crux after the fourth clip and had to repeat the route the day after for a Redpoint. Agree that those moves are still plenty difficult. Dec 19, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.12a
C Miller   CA  
  5.12a
The powerful moves getting stood up above the roof are the crux but a sequence of thin edges higher can be tough if pumped. An area favorite, even if it's a little on the short side. Dec 18, 2006