Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 7,770 total · 53/month
Shared By: duh on Feb 20, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


171 Opinions

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Description

Start just left of The Raven, below a series of huecos on the blunt arete. Climb the steep huecos past 3 bolts to a ledge, continue up to a short left facing corner and into the lower angle ramp/large hueco. Step up and left onto a small ledge and then back right to a horozontal dike with some large crystals. climb onto the dike(crux) and face climb up, slightly right at the bulge then back left to the anchor. Extending with longer draws the 4th and 6th(chicken bolts) will help with rope drag on this long route.

Protection

12 bolts, chain anchor(shared with The Raven).

Photos

duh
  5.10a
duh  
  5.10a
Way before there was a guide, before there was a bunch of easy routes and even before there were other climbers... there was Holey Moley, the original "Babe Attractor". Feb 20, 2007
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
I did it one summer and attracted nothing but flies...

but it is a very fun route none the less... Feb 21, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
It's fun, but it would be more fun with babes! Mar 9, 2007
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.10a
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.10a
IMO, the best of the easy stuff at New Jack. Fun long jug haul (5.9-?) with a bit of thin slab at the end. Sep 20, 2007
Really fun climb! Crux is on the last bulge before the anchors- a must do for sure! Dec 30, 2011
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Crux goes a couple ways, then a fun bit of exposure up top on easier ground before the anchors. Nov 26, 2012
Christian .
West Hills, CA
  5.10a
Christian .   West Hills, CA
  5.10a
Awesome climb. Varied climbing make it great. I enjoyed the bottom section the most. Go left at the top. Mar 7, 2017
Seamus Morgan
Alaska and New England
  5.10a
Seamus Morgan   Alaska and New England
  5.10a
Slab of tears before the anchor Dec 8, 2017
Left my UCSB climbing team jacket at the base of this climb. it's my favorite jacket, so if someone finds it, I would pay to get it back. If you find it and just want to keep it, at least promise that you will take it to a lot of cool crags and use it. Mar 27, 2018