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Routes in Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area

Babes-A-Boodle aka RepoMan S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blast From The Past S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Decaf S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disconnected S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Espresso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holey Moley S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raven, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Devil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Should be Called Do What? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tough Choices S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Voodoo Lounge S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Will Power S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
You Don't Know Jack S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 6,567 total, 50/month
Shared By: duh on Feb 20, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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131 Opinions

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Description

Start just left of The Raven, below a series of huecos on the blunt arete. Climb the steep huecos past 3 bolts to a ledge, continue up to a short left facing corner and into the lower angle ramp/large hueco. Step up and left onto a small ledge and then back right to a horozontal dike with some large crystals. climb onto the dike(crux) and face climb up, slightly right at the bulge then back left to the anchor. Extending with longer draws the 4th and 6th(chicken bolts) will help with rope drag on this long route.

Protection

12 bolts, chain anchor(shared with The Raven).
Seamus Morgan
Alaska and New England
  5.10a
Seamus Morgan   Alaska and New England
  5.10a
Slab of tears before the anchor Dec 8, 2017
Christian B
West Hills, California
  5.10a
Christian B   West Hills, California
  5.10a
Awesome climb. Varied climbing make it great. I enjoyed the bottom section the most. Go left at the top. Mar 7, 2017
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Crux goes a couple ways, then a fun bit of exposure up top on easier ground before the anchors. Nov 26, 2012
Really fun climb! Crux is on the last bulge before the anchors- a must do for sure! Dec 30, 2011
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.10a
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.10a
IMO, the best of the easy stuff at New Jack. Fun long jug haul (5.9-?) with a bit of thin slab at the end. Sep 20, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
It's fun, but it would be more fun with babes! Mar 9, 2007
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
I did it one summer and attracted nothing but flies...

but it is a very fun route none the less... Feb 21, 2007
duh
 
duh  
 
Way before there was a guide, before there was a bunch of easy routes and even before there were other climbers... there was Holey Moley, the original "Babe Attractor". Feb 20, 2007