Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m)
GPS: 39.39327, -105.37816
FA: TW, Alex Ruff, Lily Toyokura Hill
Page Views: 100 total · 26/month
Shared By: Tal M on Jan 21, 2026
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the rarely done second pitch to anything that goes to the shared Man-Eater anchors. Both given "5.fun" in the guidebook, this one might be more type-2 (or type-3) that its first pitch predecessor. Alex was smart enough not to follow me up on the FA (but gave a very patient belay), and Lily got up close and personal enough while putting a cleaning session on the route to know it wasn't for her either. This miserable bomb bay chimney hasn't managed to capture any other idiots in its sirens call just yet. Will you be the first?

Head up from the anchor up a crack system (be on the lookout for some loose blocks here) until you get to a good stance in the chimney. Save your hand sizes for above.

Standard finish:

The standard finish (absolutely mandatory for the Chewed Up and Spit Out challenge) is the real reason to do this. From your cozy stance, follow the chimney out, through the overhang, utilizing a sharp and splitter hand crack for both protection and the only reason to continue progress as you suffer your way to the anchors. While you certainly could belay from the anchor bolts, I sure as hell wouldn't, opting instead to set an anchor and have your follower lower you down to the big ledge and belay from there. Note: these anchors are not much less than 100 feet above the ledge, so make sure there's a knot in your end if you untie when you get to the ground.

Runaway variation:

From your cozy stance in the chimney, tunnel deeper into the chimney and up, out the back of the formation (the same hand crack is available for protection here), to a 2 bolt anchor with no lowering hardware. Walk off. Be extra mindful of loose rock in this chimney, as it's likey going to funnel to your belayer (and rope).

Location Suggest change

It ascends the obvious, overhanging, flaring, bomb bay chimney that forms the right side of the "Cyclops Head".

Protection Suggest change

Rack to a #3 and an optional #4.

Photos

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