Type: Trad, 666 ft (202 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 39.9788, -105.2913
FA: unknown
Page Views: 365 total · 36/month
Shared By: Samuel Forsyth on Nov 14, 2025 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route begins in the gully that separates the first and second pillars of Satan's Slab. Start either in the gully, or just right on good holds, and then enter it. The somewhat polished gully becomes a somewhat polished chimney 15 meters or so up.

When the gully widens, you can continue up a brown-stained streak or find crimpy face climbing on the right. It is better to move to the right at some point to skip the vegetation and poison ivy in the gully. Look for the line with the best holds.

After passing trees and chockstones in the gully to your left, move into it where the south wall gains height and is festooned with huecos. When reaching a steeper section, the easiest line is staying left and stemming over the poison ivy (if it's that season). Move up and through a tunnel, or to the right of it. Exit the hueco canyon, and gain the ridge.

From the ridge, you can look far below at Ridge 3 and 4, Angel's Way, and Mohling Arete respectively. Head to the house-sized boulders, and take the remainder of the Satan's Slab route to the top.

Location Suggest change

An fun, engaging way to get there (and avoiding poison ivy), is the first section of Stairway to Heaven, (Ridge 1) and downclimbing Casual Slabs. Climb down past the small tree, and aim for the prickly pear cactus near the bottom of the route. From the base of Casual Slabs, hike up a few yards and cross over to Satan's Slab walking over a convenient, large log. Otherwise, take the normal route towards Purgatory heading up between Ridge 1 and 2, and after Casual Slabs and before Love, take the log over to Satan's Slab.

Protection Suggest change

A standard Flatiron rack.

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