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Routes in Ridge 2 aka Satan's Slab

666 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
667 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Burger Madness T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Doric Dihedral T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Enchanted Devil T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Face The Present (aka Beware the Future) S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Far Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hobbit, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Omen, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Purgatory T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Satan's Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wild Turkey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Roger Briggs (FA), Chip Ruckgaber (FFA)
Page Views: 346 total, 3/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Mar 7, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

I am not the authority to provide historical info on this route nor can I tell you how the dihedral fits into the classical order of Greek architecture. I can tell you of its monumental early free ascent (you are still my hero Chip)...Hey, he made a cover shot!

Doric Dihedral is one of the quintessential 5.12 "old school" routes in Boulder. Fading into sublime obscurity and rarely free-climbed in the original fashion. Hard moves including aesthetic palming and stemming up a leaning, hanging corner and a clenching mantle move provide the challenge.

Protection...I first climbed DD in the mid 90s and the last time sometime in 2002 (has anyone replaced anything?). At the start is the first (modern) bolt for BTF. I "think" there used to be a pin here for DD?? After some hard bouldery moves, the rock becomes jig-saw like and twists up into a corner with (at the time good) pins and some good supplemental gear. Above the interesting geology is the smooth, tan-colored fine-grained rock of choice Flatiron climbing. The dihedral definitely steepens here and provides a demanding stemming sequence past this "aid-bolt". Placed whilst in aiders, to the free climber, it's too high to easily clip. For many years it has donned a ratty, whitened piece of tatty poot. Yikes! If it has not been replaced yet...the bolt should be...the question may be to either lower it or extend chain from it??? Comments???

Once past this crux there are two choices...A possible escape out right to the bolt anchor of the neighboring 2 routes or to fully COMMIT!

Up above in the looming overhang and upper corner was/is a nest of ratty slings connected to...JUNK!! The true crux of the route! Are you a believer? You must believe or you could succumb to slab-splatter...Yuck!! Not to spoil the fun but it's that eye opening mantle and a surprise finish...

This route will always remain sacred to me...It truly is an amazing line but I will remember it most for the experience shared with my climbing companion on one occasion. Thank you Cameron, you are still missed....

Location

The obvious right-facing/leaning dihedral between the broken arete climb of Beware the Future and the "arm and hammer" produced Watchmaker Steady bolted steep slab.

Protection

QDs for pins and bolts, wired nuts and cams in the small to mid-range sizes.

Photos

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