Type: Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 58,636 total · 223/month
Shared By: George Bell on Oct 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This hidden gem is one of the best Flatiron climbs. Solid rock and a soaring arete that is quite consistent at the grade, make for a great scramble. This climb is long, and if done roped is probably at least 8 pitches. It is quite similar in difficulty to the standard E Face route on the Third Flatiron and makes for a great solo outing. Unlike the 3rd Flatiron, however, there is no fixed gear. NOTE: This climb falls within the Falcon closure and is usually closed from Feb 1 to July 31.

Perhaps the worst part of the climb is getting to it, as it involves significant bushwhacking (see rock for details). The base of this ridge does not reach the Skunk Canyon stream, and the toe drops steeply into the woods. It is about 100 yards west of the major rib that forms Satan's Slab, be careful you do not go past it or you may find yourself on the more difficult Mohling Arete. Move around the steep toe of the arete to the right and walk up east of the ridge for 50' or so, until you spot a diagonal crack leading back to the crest. If this crack seems a bit tricky, you can also get up on the ridge a little higher. Follow the crest upwards for many pitches.

Just east of you is the much larger ridge of Satan's Slab. At one point, look right for a good view of one of the only 5.14s in the Flatirons, "Beware the Future". This climb is just left of a prominent right facing, right leaning corner (Doric Dihedral). There is a good view of both these climbs.

About half way up, don't miss the perfect layback crack. If this crack was 10 or 20 degrees steeper it would be ultra-classic, but here it is just another crack on a low angle slab, you don't even need to use it!

Eventually you will reach a sharp summit with a sheer drop-off at a 100' gap in the ridge. You will have to climb back down to exit down the east slab. You can stay low and bypass this summit, but the view from the top is worth checking out.

You can stop here and go down, but the final summit soars above the gap in the ridge. Scramble east of it until you find an easy place to get on the east face. Wander up to the final summit (which is, you may notice, higher than the top of Satan's Slab). There is yet another summit beyond on the same ridge, but this is in fact another rock (The Fist or Hippo Head), and continuing is harder than 5.2.

Getting down off the final summit is a bit tricky, you can go straight east down the slab, or go east just a bit and cut north under the summit to find a tricky downclimb of a chute with a giant flake leaning up near it.

Many descents are possible: (1) go down the gully just east of Angel's Way (watch for Poison Ivy). (2) aim for the lower right corner of the Fist, then go up (south) under the east face of the Fist, cross a saddle to find the Fifth Flatiron. Then take the "trail" that descends immediately south of the Fifth Flatiron to the Royal Arch Trail (this option involves the least bushwhacking, but you have to go up 200 feet or so). (3) Go left of the Fist and continue to the summit of Green Mountain and go down one of the trails.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Flatiron rack (very light rack).