Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft|
|FA:||S. Woodruff, D. Hare, 1975|
|Page Views:||788 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Aug 19, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
That having been said, this climb passes through some very nice terrain and is very high quality.
The cobblestone face is like a low-angle 'Velvet Elvis' (on the Ironing Boards) and most of the cobbles are very good.
Find the base and pull up onto a broken-looking hold (pretty clean now that I broke it) into a distinct chocolate brown smooth band with a high right foot. Stand up on some slopers (careful!, 5.8, R) and into a large diagonal inset in the cliff. A few large cams can be placed on a long sling up and left here is some so-so rock (#4 & #5 Camalot) A few large huecos, the larger of them being the size of a volleyball, provide good holds to lean back and right to pop over the first roof and up. Going down and right, low to a rotten seam, provided more difficulty, but no more pro, going up and right over the roof was good (5.8+, PG-13). A very solid #3.5 Camalot placement would have fit over this roof, but I didn't have one, so my #3 was tipped out. Somewhere around here I got some small aliens in a shallow horizontal. Pulling over a second roof onto the vertical cobbled face was 5.8, then the face become lower angle, going up cobbles and then giving way to classic Flatiron's rock for 100' of climbing, to reach the ridge of the slab. Pop over and belay on the slab, having joined up and west of the second roof of Satan's Slab. This is a 60M pitch and was very good. I found that a 70M rope and 3 meters of simul-climbing set me down on a great belay ledge, from which Satan's Slab can be completed in 2 more very long pitches.