Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: J. Erickson, R. Matous, 1979
Page Views: 762 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 26, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

2 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This was a decent route with some physical effort required to climb it. It would be 2 stars for the moves, but the lack of traffic has left this climb somewhat licheny down low, and with some loose rock up high. All of the necessary holds are solid enough, but it would have been nice to use the walls aside the roof for more smears- unfortunately the thin loose flakes there made that problematic.
Still, for those who like to climb roof, like handcracks guarded by large slots, and don't mind the long walk in, this is a fun route and plenty well protected once on the harder climbing.

Location Suggest change

Go up the back of Ridge 2 of Skunk Canyon for a few hundred meters, passing the bolted lines 'Beware the Future' 'Doric Dihedral' 'Watchmaker Steady' etc....
Pass the massive dead log below the off-fists roof of 'Burger Madness' and continue up the way perhaps 30 meters, passing the Satan's Slab downclimb. Continue to 2 large pines growing near the wall on the right. You will see a short, right-facing dihedral that goes up to a yawning crack through a large roof. Climb this to the top, and up over the lip to gain easy terrain. Belay and walk down to the downclimb (awkward 5.6) or go back south to the rap tree 10 meters South of 'Burger Madness.'

Protection Suggest change

It looks like it would take very wide gear, but it is in fact too wide for wide gear, and there is a crack back in the crack which will take more manageable and common gear. Rack: a few very small cams or small nuts for the thin crack before the roof, an optional #4 Camalot (new style OK), then a single set of cams from 1.5" to 3.5". Many choices for a top anchor.
The right-facing dihedral at the start is unprotected, and while not terribly hard (8+ ???), is a little lichenous and deserves some respect. It would be a long way to drag yourself out with a broken ankle.