Devhellopment
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.39913, -105.37254 |
| FA: | Tanner Wanish, TW - FFA: Armand La Douceur |
| Page Views: | 174 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Tal M on Oct 5, 2025 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This route promises 3 things: nauseating exposure, questionable rock, and an absolute ass beating - even if you send.
Devhellopment was a ground-up FA tackling the striking, thin crack out the steep roof on Pleasure Dome's left side. While the crack didn't yield much for usable protection, it provided just enough holds to allow for passage at a relatively mortal grade.
P1: start up the corner system in front of the large ponderosa pine, placing gear en route to a retrobolted first bolt. Continue up, clipping a few more bolts before breaking left and following a bolt line through a shallow water groove to a short bulge that eventually gives way to significantly easier climbing and a 2 bolt anchor. This is a great pitch in its own right, 5.10-, 6 or 7 bolts, rack #0.3-1, 105 feet - knot your ends on a 60m rope.
P2: this is the reason you came up here. Step left from the anchor into the wide corner crack, and follow it as it arches up and right to the base of the steep crack. Stand high, and grab the first permadraw (out left to protect your ankles from the slab below). Decipher a plan to reach the 2nd permadraw. Success will quickly yield an enormous jug rail that provides access to the third permadraw and a huge foot ledge that is shockingly crumbly considering the sheer amount of time that has gone into trying to clean it up. More moves on good hand holds leads to the last permadraw and potentially the redpoint crux of the route - an atrocious hand jam and some desperate thrutching to get yourself over the lip of the roof. While you certainly need to tag the anchors to consider it a send, for the sake of your rope (unless you're topping out), downclimb back to the last permadraw, and lower off of it, 5.12, (2) #1-3, 4 permadraws, 55 feet.



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