Type: Boulder, 10 ft (3 m)
GPS: 39.35388, -104.76889
FA: unknown
Page Views: 59 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nicholas Kawecki on Aug 21, 2025
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Mental Floss ascends a very contrived and a bit dirty but a fun roof crack if you choose to accept it! For full value, avoid any holds on the right wall lower than the roof particularly the low slabby foot holds (similar to Monkey See, Monkey Bleau).

Start as low as possible in the crack with handjams, and take your pick of foot-first or foot holds following on the edges and jugs in the roof or the crack itself. Make a few hand/fist moves, then either do a big reach past the wide section or try to find some OW techniques. The crack then tapers back down before again widening and flaring for a topout that took me a solid 3 minutes of groveling to manage my way up.

Undercling/layback traversing the crack with no contrivances and the lower slab feet goes at closer to V0. Still it is fun, if you're running out of other easy climbs to do in this area!

Location Suggest change

It is in the roof on the West side of the Fontainebleau Boulder next to the start of the monkey routes.

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