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> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Mamquam FSR
> Fern Hill
Binding Spell
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Fern Hill
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3 or 4 Times a Night S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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All Night Long S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ants Go Marching S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Argo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Binding Spell S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Binfluencer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blood and Pepper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Burning the Coil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Burp the Worm S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Carrate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Charlie Don't Surf S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Codgery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Covidity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crapology S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Digital Dementia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dividing Line, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dungeon Master, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Feigned Indignation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Golden Redemption S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Good Times S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Good Times In A Snowglobe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Happy Feet S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Honeymoon's Over, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hot Chode S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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It's Not About You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Kenny vs Spenny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lady Switcher, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Little Tree S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mellow Yellow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mudraker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Outdoor Millennial Hipsters S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Outlaw Biker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Quaker Oats S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Right of Way S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right of Way S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Serenity Now! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Snowglobe S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Solitary Confinement S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Story of My Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toxic Troll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Twick or tweet S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Typical Squamish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vikings' Are Coming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Where are they now? S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Who's Next? S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yellow Fever S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 49.72143, -123.10157 |
| FA: | Colin Moorhead, August, 2025 |
| Page Views: | 104 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Moorhead on Aug 6, 2025 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: FSR CLOSURE
Details
Information from: www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/…
Stawamus/Indian River FSR 4823
Branch 01 (Stawamus/Indian mainline)
- No access to Vancouver via Stawamus/Indian River FSR.
- August 30, 2024 - December 31, 2025: Road closed to all users at gate at 3km due to construction activities. Single lane alternating traffic 0 - 3km. Expect delays. Traffic control on site. Road also closed to all users at 34.5km (no access through Indian Arm). Expect further closures through 2026.
- See Fortis Eagle Mountain-Woodfibre website for more information on the pipeline project.
Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road activities should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no vehicle access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles available at the 4.2km location.
Stawamus/Indian River FSR 4823
Branch 01 (Stawamus/Indian mainline)
- No access to Vancouver via Stawamus/Indian River FSR.
- August 30, 2024 - December 31, 2025: Road closed to all users at gate at 3km due to construction activities. Single lane alternating traffic 0 - 3km. Expect delays. Traffic control on site. Road also closed to all users at 34.5km (no access through Indian Arm). Expect further closures through 2026.
- See Fortis Eagle Mountain-Woodfibre website for more information on the pipeline project.
Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road activities should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no vehicle access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles available at the 4.2km location.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Binding Spell takes in the the steep section of rock just to the right of Vikings passing the crux of Little Tree and continuing to the top of the wall through a wild roof crack and lip traverse that will leave repeat ascensionists cursing the fact that the anchor is positioned just a few moves beyond where you are hoping to finish. 9 bolts ~ 30m.
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