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Routes in Fern Hill

3 or 4 Times a Night S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Night Long S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ants Go Marching S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood and Pepper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Burning the Coil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Burp the Worm S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dividing Line, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dungeon Master, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Good Times S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happy Feet S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Honeymoon's Over, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Chode S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
It's Not About You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kenny vs Spenny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lady Switcher, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Tree S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mudraker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Outdoor Millennial Hipsters S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Quaker Oats S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Serenity Now! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snowglobe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solitary Confinement S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Story of My Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Typical Squamish S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vikings' Are Coming, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Where are they now? S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Who's Next? S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Yellow Fever S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

This is a new old crag. One route was done in 1996 and then over the last year or two (2007 and 2008), Peter Winter cleaned it up and put in about 20 bolted routes. The climbs are primarily 5.11 and 5.12, although there are two at 5.10b and one 5.9.

The wall is taller and steeper than many sport areas around squamish and has good, though-provoking climbing. It faces east and has sun until about noon depending on the season. The base can be buggy, bring bug juice.

Here's a link to a topo that also includes directions.

Peter Winter has requested that TRs be done from draws rather than through the chains; good advice in any area.

Getting There

While this crag is in the same vicinity as The Sanctuary, the approach is different.

Take the Mamquam Forest Service Road (the one you take for The Apron parking lot), drive past Slhanay (The Squaw) and stay left at the forks until you can park in a clearing just left of a gate (Epcor).

Walk along the trail at the end of the clearing, past concrete barriers, until you can head left onto the Farther Side mountain bike trail. Follow the trail, staying left, until it has turned to head east and is fairly level. In a few minutes the crag should then be just barely visible from the trail, and flagging tape helps locate the very rough trail to the base. You'll probably bushwack the first time. Total time from parking should be 10 to 15 minutes.

Need to Know

Bring bug spray and/or coils. Mosquitoes bad in the spring.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fern Hill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Ants Go Marching
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 29
Good Times
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Burp the Worm
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ants Go Marching
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Good Times
 29
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Burp the Worm
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Fern Hill »

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