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Burning the Coil
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | P.Winter |
Page Views: | 1,068 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Peter Winter on Apr 27, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Information from: www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/…
Stawamus/ Indian River FSR 4823
- 4WD access only; seasonally deactivated
- Branch 01 (Stawamus/ Indian mainline)
- Industrial activities 0-1.5km. Expect delays
- Road closed to all users at new gate at 9.5km; May 9 - September 2, 2024 due to construction activities. Traffic control personnel on site.
- Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Stawamus Chief and Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Road closed April 15 – May 31, 2024 Monday-Friday, 07:00-11:00 & 12:00-17:00.
- Occasional road closures June 1 - 28, 2024. Traffic control personnel on site during closures.
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road closures should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- 4WD access only
- Active industrial operations, use caution. Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no road access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles will be available at the 4.2km location
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This route is sustained with bouldery cruxes and a few good rests.
Easy climbing leads to the first bolt at about 30 feet. There are two distinct points on the route at which you may choose to climb either left or right of the bolt line, with the different paths potentially suiting different strengths. There are two different sets of anchors at the top: one on the left, one on the right. The grade is the same regardless which anchors you clip.
This route tends to seep after a rain, especially at the bulge below the fifth bolt.
Easy climbing leads to the first bolt at about 30 feet. There are two distinct points on the route at which you may choose to climb either left or right of the bolt line, with the different paths potentially suiting different strengths. There are two different sets of anchors at the top: one on the left, one on the right. The grade is the same regardless which anchors you clip.
This route tends to seep after a rain, especially at the bulge below the fifth bolt.
Photos
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