Ranking Carl
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 82 ft (25 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0273, -116.13061 |
| FA: | Dave Evans & Margy Floyd |
| Page Views: | 50 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Dec 22, 2024 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route ascends the right of two varnished cracks on the narrow buttress on the left side of the black face. Like Fredricks is a Daddy, the route has one bolt down low on it.
Climb an easy crack up to a prominent horizontal. Step up and right and clip a bolt. Pull up into a scoop to better holds and eventually, a prominent, vertical crack with a bush. Climb up past the bush to a fist crack, which is followed to the top.
The route is drawn in purple on the cliff photos.



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