Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Black Rocks

1B1RP T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freriks Is A Daddy T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My President Is Addicted To War T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Opportunist, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Preying Mantles T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

The Black Rocks have a half dozen routes that would be considered trad climbing. The rock varies from fair to very good as the black and gray rock at Josh is usually XL. The cliff gets afternoon sun and is a good cold day destination. The main black cliff has 3 established routes the best of which is Freriks is a Daddy 5.10 b/c. It climbs a steep thin seam on the buttress to left of center just right of a clean dihedral. It is similar to "Wired", i.e. technical with thin pro. Tie off a rare Josh "thread" in rotten rock and lieback up and away!

Getting There

The Vogel guide states: "These very dark-colored cliffs lie on the west side of a small hillside .5 mile E-SE of the Wonderland Ranch (Uncle Willie's) parking area. They lie to the north of the Bighorn Pass Rd., about .6 miles after you pass the turnoff for the Wonderland Ranch parking area. The 3 separate "black" cliffs are fairly obvious". These directions lead to the section of cliff with "Freriks is a Daddy" 5.10 b/c and "Ranking Carl" 5.8. The cliff with the 4 routes listed in the book is actually about 50 meters to the north and is a smaller gray cliff.

5 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Black Rocks Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
The small photo shows the section with 1B1RP etc. The large top photo shows the left hand crag with "My President is Addicted To War." Apr 16, 2004

More About The Black Rocks

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within The Black Rocks (7)

Most Popular · Newest