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The Trans-Amazon Highway
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in 8. Castellan
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Big Baby T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Mama's Eviction T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big Poppa Lurking T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cousin Uncle Dave - MG T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Double Draisines Across Shock's Mill T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dungeon Dweller - LG T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jungle Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jungle Booklet T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kenderline - UG, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Terrarium Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tower Sage - LG T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Trans-Amazon Highway, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Vertical Vineyard T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Vespa Aculeo Vomitum - LG T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Welcome to Castellan T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 40.05566, -76.63051 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 90 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Borton on Sep 10, 2024 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
Access Issue: Choss and Access
Details
This is a lead access crag. Most anchors must be led in order to be used. There are a few that can facilitate rappels. Do not cut trail to get to the top of the cliffs.
Access:
Climbing is now a recognized and approved activity at this park. Below is the agreement with DCNR.
Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of holds (hand and foot) is not permitted. This restriction also includes the practice of dry tooling, which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces.
SCPC is the only entity that is allowed to install fixtures and will remove any non-SCPC owned or installed fixtures when doing routine maintenance. Rivets and pitons are not permitted.
Removing vegetation of any type to clear a climbing route is not permitted.
Temporary anchors may be used as long as they are removed after use.
Should a tree be used for climbing purposes, padding will be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree.
Chalk use should be minimized, used in a bag, and holds should be brushed off if heavily chalked.
Climbing or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species or in areas determined by PA DCNR to be ecologically significant is not permitted.
PA DCNR may close entire formations or climbing routes permanently or on a temporary basis. Closures may include but are not limited to natural resource protection, unsafe conditions, or park maintenance activities.
Description
Boulder up the lower flatiron section through horizontals to a crack system. Follow this straight up (first crux) to a small ledge under a roof.
Pass the roof on the right. Move left and up through several horizontals. Then move right and up to another roof.
Traverse right beneath the roof, heading toward a right-facing corner. Move into the corner on thin edges (second crux). At the base of the corner locate a thin horizontal and protect with a ball nut. Sling with a long runner to avoid rope drag above.
Move up the corner. Protect with small cams/Tricams in horizontals. Gain the ledge.
Move left on the ledge to a small tree. From here ascend the Trans-Amazon Highway through the jungle (third crux) and finish on the ledge above.
This climb could be done in two or three short pitches for more value and less rope drag.
Named after the famous highway cut through the Brazilian rainforest in the 1970s. First explored in Pennsylvania jungle conditions--95 degrees and humid--in summer 2024.
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