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Routes in 8. Castellan
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Big Baby T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Mama's Eviction T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big Poppa Lurking T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cousin Uncle Dave - MG T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Double Draisines Across Shock's Mill T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dungeon Dweller - LG T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jungle Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jungle Booklet T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kenderline - UG, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Terrarium Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tower Sage - LG T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Trans-Amazon Highway, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Vertical Vineyard T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Vespa Aculeo Vomitum - LG T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Welcome to Castellan T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 40.05566, -76.63051 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 135 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Borton on Jun 5, 2024 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Access Issue: Choss and Access
Details
WARNING: Due to the minimal mileage this crag has seen over the decades expect to encounter choss and bring a helmet. Lines clean up with enough traffic, similar to how Chickies, Gunks or Seneca have cleaned up, but they do not get that way right away. Be cautious and consider top roping (or at least top rope or rappel inspect) a line first.
Access:
Climbing is now a recognized and approved activity at this park. Below is the agreement with DCNR.
Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of holds (hand and foot) is not permitted. This restriction also includes the practice of dry tooling, which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces.
SCPC is the only entity that is allowed to install fixtures and will remove any non-SCPC owned or installed fixtures when doing routine maintenance. Rivets and pitons are not permitted.
Removing vegetation of any type to clear a climbing route is not permitted.
Temporary anchors may be used as long as they are removed after use.
Should a tree be used for climbing purposes, padding will be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree.
Chalk use should be minimized, used in a bag, and holds should be brushed off if heavily chalked.
Climbing or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species or in areas determined by PA DCNR to be ecologically significant is not permitted.
PA DCNR may close entire formations or climbing routes permanently or on a temporary basis. Closures may include but are not limited to natural resource protection, unsafe conditions, or park maintenance activities.
Access:
Climbing is now a recognized and approved activity at this park. Below is the agreement with DCNR.
Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of holds (hand and foot) is not permitted. This restriction also includes the practice of dry tooling, which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces.
SCPC is the only entity that is allowed to install fixtures and will remove any non-SCPC owned or installed fixtures when doing routine maintenance. Rivets and pitons are not permitted.
Removing vegetation of any type to clear a climbing route is not permitted.
Temporary anchors may be used as long as they are removed after use.
Should a tree be used for climbing purposes, padding will be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree.
Chalk use should be minimized, used in a bag, and holds should be brushed off if heavily chalked.
Climbing or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species or in areas determined by PA DCNR to be ecologically significant is not permitted.
PA DCNR may close entire formations or climbing routes permanently or on a temporary basis. Closures may include but are not limited to natural resource protection, unsafe conditions, or park maintenance activities.
Description
Climb the middle of the slab below the chute with the Yosemite-style dihedrals. Gain the dirty ledge. Climb the crack in the middle of the chute. Avoid the dihedrals. Aim for the triangular roof at the top of the chute. Pass it on the right. As you reach a nice ledge beware of the spooky stacked blocks on your right. (Don't let Baby touch them.) Belay here if you want to do this in two pitches,
Continue straight up the face, passing a small tree to your right. Look for pro in the horizontals. Enjoy the exposure. Avoid the arete on your right. Step right at the end of the pitch and top out on pretty good handholds but smears and small edges for your feet. Rap off using the webbing rap station or nearby trees.
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