Susquehanna Riverlands State Park Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 280 ft | 85 m |
| GPS: |
40.05717, -76.63627 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 6,246 total · 146/month | |
| Shared By: | Kelston H on Oct 8, 2022 | |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
This is a lead access crag. Most anchors must be led in order to be used. There are a few that can facilitate rappels. Do not cut trail to get to the top of the cliffs.
Access:
Climbing is now a recognized and approved activity at this park. Below is the agreement with DCNR.
Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of holds (hand and foot) is not permitted. This restriction also includes the practice of dry tooling, which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces.
SCPC is the only entity that is allowed to install fixtures and will remove any non-SCPC owned or installed fixtures when doing routine maintenance. Rivets and pitons are not permitted.
Removing vegetation of any type to clear a climbing route is not permitted.
Temporary anchors may be used as long as they are removed after use.
Should a tree be used for climbing purposes, padding will be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree.
Chalk use should be minimized, used in a bag, and holds should be brushed off if heavily chalked.
Climbing or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species or in areas determined by PA DCNR to be ecologically significant is not permitted.
PA DCNR may close entire formations or climbing routes permanently or on a temporary basis. Closures may include but are not limited to natural resource protection, unsafe conditions, or park maintenance activities.
Description
Susquehanna Riverlands State Park is a traditional climbing crag on cliffs rising over the west bank of the Susquehanna River in York County. It has mostly single and a few multi-pitch routes, ranging from 5.0 to 5.10+ or 5.11-, on Lower Cambrian Quartzite. Grades are similar to Chickies, Safe Harbor (Trad lines), and Dauphin Narrows but, as with all grades, they are subjective.
There are some real nice cragging spots where one can top rope easily. Please lead an easy route to set up said top rope to avoid erosion around the sides of the cliffs. There are also a number of more Adventure style crags that lean to a lead-follow climbing style. Use slings and trad protection to build anchors; do not leave any fixed hardware. Avoid slinging trees.
Due to the minimal mileage this crag has seen over the decades expect to encounter choss and bring a helmet. Lines clean up with enough traffic, similar to how Chickies, Gunks or Seneca have cleaned up, but they do not get that way right away.
Also known as Schull's Rock for many years.
Areas 3-A have been linked by an improved game trail. Look for a rock trail often edged by fallen limbs. In general, try to utilize the rocks and established trails over the erodible soil. It may be a further walk but it is better for long term access.
Access Fund and DCNR partnered up to build a trail that links the upper ridge trail to the lower carriage road. Bisecting the climbers trail. Utilize this to access climbs if not rappelling. Please do not make your own trail
DCNR is developing a trail system to some of the overlooks, one can rappel in or build anchors from these. Please do not cut trail.
Getting There
Exit Rt 30 at Wrightsville and head north and follow Furnace Rd till you get to the main park entrance. Utilized the overlook parking. If that lot is full there is additional parking down along the Codorus. One can hike up the old road from here to the overlook trail.
Forge Ln, York, PA 17347
Classic Climbing Routes at Susquehanna Riverlands State Park
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