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Elevation: 280 ft 85 m
GPS: 40.05717, -76.63627
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Shared By: Kelston H on Oct 8, 2022
Admins: Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC
Warning Access Issue: Previously Private Land. Recently transitioned to a PA State Park. Climbing is not yet permitted. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Susquehanna Riverlands State Park is a traditional climbing crag on cliffs rising over the west bank of the Susquehanna River in York County. It has mostly single and a few multi-pitch routes, ranging from 5.0 to 5.10+ or 5.11-, on Lower Cambrian Quartzite. There are some real nice cragging spots where one can top rope easily. Please lead an easy route to set up said top rope to avoid erosion around the sides of the cliffs. There are also a number of more Adventure style crags that lean to a lead-follow climbing style. Use slings and trad protection to build anchors; do not leave any fixed hardware. Avoid slinging trees. 

Due to the minimal mileage this crag has seen over the decades expect to encounter choss and bring a helmet. Lines clean up with enough traffic, similar to how Chickies, Gunks or Seneca have cleaned up, but they do not get that way right away. 

Also known as Schull's Rock for many years.

Areas 3-9 have been linked by an improved game trail. Look for a rock trail often edged by fallen limbs. In general, try to utilize the rocks and established trails over the erodible soil. It may be a further walk but it is better for long term access. 

Access Fund and DCNR partnered up to build a trail that links the upper ridge trail to the lower carriage road. Bisecting the climbers trail. Utilize this to access climbs if not rappelling. Please do not make your own trail 

DCNR is developing a trail system to some of the overlooks, one can rappel in or build anchors from these. Please do not cut trail.

Getting There Suggest change

Exit Rt 30 at Wrightsville and head north and follow Furnace Rd till you get to the main park entrance. Utilized the overlook parking. If that lot is full there is additional parking down along the Codorus. One can hike up the old road from here to the overlook trail.

Forge Ln, York, PA 17347

92 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Susquehanna Riverlands State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Big Mama's Eviction
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Big Mama's Eviction 8. Castellan
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
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