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Routes in 8. Castellan
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Big Baby T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Mama's Eviction T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big Poppa Lurking T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cousin Uncle Dave - MG T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Double Draisines Across Shock's Mill T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dungeon Dweller - LG T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jungle Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jungle Booklet T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kenderline - UG, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Terrarium Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tower Sage - LG T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Trans-Amazon Highway, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Vertical Vineyard T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Vespa Aculeo Vomitum - LG T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Welcome to Castellan T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 40.05566, -76.63051 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 102 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Kelston H on Apr 30, 2024 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Access Issue: Choss and Access
Details
WARNING: Due to the minimal mileage this crag has seen over the decades expect to encounter choss and bring a helmet. Lines clean up with enough traffic, similar to how Chickies, Gunks or Seneca have cleaned up, but they do not get that way right away. Be cautious and consider top roping (or at least top rope or rappel inspect) a line first.
Access:
Climbing is now a recognized and approved activity at this park. Below is the agreement with DCNR.
Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of holds (hand and foot) is not permitted. This restriction also includes the practice of dry tooling, which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces.
SCPC is the only entity that is allowed to install fixtures and will remove any non-SCPC owned or installed fixtures when doing routine maintenance. Rivets and pitons are not permitted.
Removing vegetation of any type to clear a climbing route is not permitted.
Temporary anchors may be used as long as they are removed after use.
Should a tree be used for climbing purposes, padding will be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree.
Chalk use should be minimized, used in a bag, and holds should be brushed off if heavily chalked.
Climbing or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species or in areas determined by PA DCNR to be ecologically significant is not permitted.
PA DCNR may close entire formations or climbing routes permanently or on a temporary basis. Closures may include but are not limited to natural resource protection, unsafe conditions, or park maintenance activities.
Access:
Climbing is now a recognized and approved activity at this park. Below is the agreement with DCNR.
Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of holds (hand and foot) is not permitted. This restriction also includes the practice of dry tooling, which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces.
SCPC is the only entity that is allowed to install fixtures and will remove any non-SCPC owned or installed fixtures when doing routine maintenance. Rivets and pitons are not permitted.
Removing vegetation of any type to clear a climbing route is not permitted.
Temporary anchors may be used as long as they are removed after use.
Should a tree be used for climbing purposes, padding will be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree.
Chalk use should be minimized, used in a bag, and holds should be brushed off if heavily chalked.
Climbing or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species or in areas determined by PA DCNR to be ecologically significant is not permitted.
PA DCNR may close entire formations or climbing routes permanently or on a temporary basis. Closures may include but are not limited to natural resource protection, unsafe conditions, or park maintenance activities.
Description
Start up a dirty crack system to a nice shared ledge with Big Mamma. This route runs up the right layback fist sized crack and through the wider V. Above this wide V is a large section of rock stacked on smaller blocks that will one day fall. For now just try and avoid those key blocks. Climb up the arete of a gully with a tree at the base. Avoid going in the actual gully to keep things fun. Make a few key moves to top this one out and build your anchor.
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