Voie Direct

P1: (5b) Start up the corner system on solid rock while clipping bolts.

P2: (4c) Continue up a short way on easier ground. Pass through a small chimney section behind a chockstone—fun climbing!

P3: (5b+): The mailbox pitch! Continue up the crack system and work through a short but fun section of off-width/chimney climbing. *Note that this section can be wet after rain, so it's worth giving it some time to dry. Otherwise, you might have to gravel through muddy water.

P4: (4c) Continue up the crack system to a ledge where many climbs intersect, including Zygofolis and Divine Martine. Moved the belay down and to the left 2 meters. 

P5: (5b) The direct leaves to the left up a steep wall for 10-15 m. Continue up a slab on wide cracks, past several more bolts. 

P6: (4a) Follow the bolts upwards. 

P7: (4a) Continue on moderate terrain following the bolts. 

P8: (4a) Continue up to a large ramp moving to the right, past an extra belay before reaching a relay at the base of the nice crack. 

P9: (5b) Climb a crack diagonally up to the left. Great pitch! If this is limit climbing for you. The black and blue totems were great. 

P10: (5b) Continue up over a small roof through a fantastic low-angle crack system.

* This is where the normal route also joins in. 

P11: (4a) Follow the bolts up. In this section, the bolt placement can create a lot of rope drag. Consider extending with alpines. 

P12: (5b) Climb up a slab to the base of the short steep section. Make a few steeper moves, then walk up left and look right to find the last anchor. 

Descent. From the top of the route, traverse left (East) along the ridge. There is a trail going down. Go behind Haute Corde, and you will come to a hiking path that leads around to the Col de la Poreyrette and subsequently down to the valley and back to the field you crossed through to get to the start of the climb in the first place.

Note: The descent is fairly exposed, with substantial no-fall zones. Especially for the ridge its not unreasonable to be roped up. There are several bolts along the way and many gear placement options. 

Follow the instructions in the general area description to reach the boulder with a large red dot and red pained text saying ''Miroir. From here, follow the path up to the base of the routes. The direct starts at the lower left corner of the darker orange rocks. This requires some scrambling to reach. Traverse right and up to the base. There is a single 5 climbing move to reach the terrace with the anchor. A plate at the base marks the base of the route.

*Note: while reaching the route bypassing the belay for Zygofolis is possible, we found that traversing lower down was much easier. Thus, if you find yourself at the Zygofolis belay, consider down climbing a bit and traversing right on easier ground before going up.  

#0.5-#3 and nuts. Double-length slings were useful for slinging chockstones on the earlier pitches. *Consider bringing cams in the #0.2-#0.3 for P5 if you are not comfortable with the grade.