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Routes in Le Miroir d'Argentine
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Papageno S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Remix S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Voie Originale de l'Y (The Original Route) T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 14 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 908 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Vivek Subramanian on Jul 31, 2019 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
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Description
This is a nice route up great limestone. The crux sections are in the first three pitches, and are well protected. The easier sections are very run out, so you should be comfortable with this, or should bring some cams and/or nuts between 0.4 and 1.
The pitch rating is as follows.
pitch 1:5.9.
pitch 2: 5.10a.
pitch 3: 5.10a/b. The crux pitch. Great fun climbing with lots of different styles from bolt to bolt
pitch 4: 5.9
pitch 5: 5.7 some runout. The next few pitches are a little monotonous on low angle rock. Slabby but straightfoward. The bolt spacing can be large, but the climbing isn't difficult. Stay to your left to avoid getting off-route
pitch 6: 5.7 some runout
pitch 7: 5.9 some runout slab. Stay to your left to avoid getting off-route.
pitch 8: 5.9 some runout slab
pitch 9: 5.9 some runout slab
pitch 10: 5.9 some runout slab
ptich 11: 5.6
pitch 12: 5.7
pitch 13: 5.6
pitch 14: 5.6
The descent is long. Follow the path to climbers left and work around the gendarme with the cross (or climb it... fun 5.10d).
Follow the path till it ends. Then scramble up the rock to find the continuation of the path. It is usually marked with cairns. Then follow the path down. When you get to the split in the path (30-45 minutes after the cairns) go left for the steeper trail down... this deposits you in the moraine behind the meadow, and involves a lots of descending on loose rock. This is not recommended in bad weather since it gets very slippery. Alternatively, you can go right to join the hikers trail down, which will deposit you back on the road. Apparently, it takes about 2 hours from the split.
The pitch rating is as follows.
pitch 1:5.9.
pitch 2: 5.10a.
pitch 3: 5.10a/b. The crux pitch. Great fun climbing with lots of different styles from bolt to bolt
pitch 4: 5.9
pitch 5: 5.7 some runout. The next few pitches are a little monotonous on low angle rock. Slabby but straightfoward. The bolt spacing can be large, but the climbing isn't difficult. Stay to your left to avoid getting off-route
pitch 6: 5.7 some runout
pitch 7: 5.9 some runout slab. Stay to your left to avoid getting off-route.
pitch 8: 5.9 some runout slab
pitch 9: 5.9 some runout slab
pitch 10: 5.9 some runout slab
ptich 11: 5.6
pitch 12: 5.7
pitch 13: 5.6
pitch 14: 5.6
The descent is long. Follow the path to climbers left and work around the gendarme with the cross (or climb it... fun 5.10d).
Follow the path till it ends. Then scramble up the rock to find the continuation of the path. It is usually marked with cairns. Then follow the path down. When you get to the split in the path (30-45 minutes after the cairns) go left for the steeper trail down... this deposits you in the moraine behind the meadow, and involves a lots of descending on loose rock. This is not recommended in bad weather since it gets very slippery. Alternatively, you can go right to join the hikers trail down, which will deposit you back on the road. Apparently, it takes about 2 hours from the split.
Location
Cross the stream from the main Solalex parking lot or from the restaurant parking lot. You will end up in a grassy meadow. Facing the wall, if you head to climbers far right in the meadow, you will see a large isolated rock. The trail to the climbs starts just behind the rock. Follow it up to the climbing area and head left till you reach remix, which is clearly painted on the rock.
![[[200115753]] climbing the airy roof traverse and bulge pulling pitch 10!!! A spectacularly fun pitch. Beware of rope drag!](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/124654568_smallMed_1690365408.jpg?cache=1692129329)
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