Type: | Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches |
FA: | Claude and Yves Remy (1987), Re-equipment (1997) |
Page Views: | 14 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | James H on Sep 4, 2024 |
Admins: | Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn |
Description
P1: (6a) Athletic climbing that starts up and then moves right, following the bolts. Belay in a somewhat hanging stance.
P2: (6c) Climb up and right on through face climbing. Then, more directly up, occasionally using the arete, pull the well-defined crux sequence before traversing back left to the belay under the roof.
*Variation (5a+) It's possible to link into this route by skipping the first two pitches of 6a and 6c by starting on the direct route and traversing left after ~7m to join Zygofolis.
P3: (5c+) Climb up and traverse under the roof on hero holds, clipping bolts as you go. Then, trend straight up a short way to a comfy belay.
P4: (5c) Go up and past a tricky, well-bolted sequence before working your way further up the arete.
P5: (5b) Continue up on steep holds for a way up to a lovely terrace where several routes converge/cross, including the Voie Direct and Divine Martine.
P6: (5c+) Climb the bolted line going up and right, laying back an off-width size crack! Awesome climbing! Then, climb the face up to a belay. Take care here, as it's easy to end up at a belay that is too far left.
* At this point, we will switch to Voie Direct. Please add notes if you have climbed the later pitches.
P7: (5c)
P8: (5b)
P9: (4a)
P10: (4a)
P11: (5c)
P12: (5c)
P13: (2c)
P14: (5c)
P15: (6a+)
Descent: Please add.
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