Gasparito

 Right when you get the top of the stairs, you'll see a 'grampo' (old P style protection) about 6 feet off the ground. Leaving from there is about a 7a (5.11-?) variation. Going up to the left and around to the second bolt is the easier, about 5.8 way. The route about 5.8  the whole way, with no real crux in my opinion, although it is quite run out, and offers amazing views at the top! You can see copacabana beach, christo, gavea, dois irmoes and the lagoa - very worth a fun, fairly easy romp up. 

P1 - 35m 5 bolts trending up and right on small crystals and ending at a double bolt belay station just past a small ledge. It was quite run out in my opinion. 

P2 - 40 m 7 bolts. go left from the belay station... be careful bc another route goes up right and the bolts are much more obvious. Stay left and you'll see the first bolt almost exactly diagonal left from the belay station. The second to third bolt on this is route is also a bit tricky to find, almost exactly 45 degrees left as well. Then continue up to the obvious right trending ramp. A the end of this ramp is a 2 bolt belay station. 

P3 - 35m 7 bolts.  Trend right out onto the face, follow a trail of crystals up, and finish on the double bolt belay station. Head up, you will see a bolt and an older P grampo above the double bolt belay but dont take these. This route used to go up to the top but its not advised to top out anymore bc there's a community on the other side. 

Descent - 3  rappels. 60m BARELY works - use knots (so I'm told). We used an 80m to be sure, but a 70m would probably be fine as well. The rap stations are the same as the belay stations, you'll see double sided bolts (not belay rings) that are fine to rap from. 

I gave it two starts bc it was pretty run out and holds tend to break in this area and some rock is pretty crumbly.

First route off to the right at the top of the stairs from cantagalo.