Type: Trad, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 44.16805, -71.67129
FA: Ray Rice and Dane Knackerjack july 7 2024
Page Views: 227 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ray rice on Jul 22, 2024
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Like most other climbs up at eagle, the position is awesome. This one is just higher up and completely out there!

 P.1  Start up the late shows first three or four bolts then duck out left into a crack and rest at the first pitch belay on hidden treasure. Move back out right on the steep face clipping bolts and laybacking cracks with gear placements, big move out left gains a ledge system and ramp up into the shallow dihedral crux section of this pitch. Some techy stem moves left and right will get you through the steepening corner and to the belay.

P.2  Easy terrain above the belay brings you to a ledge underneath the the hanging Arete (gulp)!   Clip up, rear up and go. Attentive belay on clipping the second bolt off the ledge is suggested (good clipping holds, heal hook is helpful). Cheater rest out right at 3rd bolt, but coming back to take it straight on gives full value and piece of mind if one were to whip...Wind in your hair, air under your arse and your up and over the physical difficulties. Cruise the cat walk, knife edge, hail Mary, god forsaken feature, to the final ass puckering, hang it all out there moves to the chains (mental difficulties).  Am i selling it?

"Turnbuckles to Talus" that is the question

Location Suggest change

Optional starts, but the rope will run best and stays more consistent with the grade if starting on the late show. 

Protection Suggest change

Mostly bolts but tag along a #1 and a couple finger size cams for the first pitch. P.2 is fully bolted

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