Turnbuckles to Talus
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.16805, -71.67129 |
| FA: | Ray Rice and Dane Knackerjack july 7 2024 |
| Page Views: | 227 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ray rice on Jul 22, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Eaglet and Eagle Cliff (1/2 mile away) are OPEN.
Climbing is CLOSED above the Eaglet Spire,
Long Wall, Gully Wall, Falcon Amphitheater, and Falcon Wall.
Description
Like most other climbs up at eagle, the position is awesome. This one is just higher up and completely out there!
P.1 Start up the late shows first three or four bolts then duck out left into a crack and rest at the first pitch belay on hidden treasure. Move back out right on the steep face clipping bolts and laybacking cracks with gear placements, big move out left gains a ledge system and ramp up into the shallow dihedral crux section of this pitch. Some techy stem moves left and right will get you through the steepening corner and to the belay.
P.2 Easy terrain above the belay brings you to a ledge underneath the the hanging Arete (gulp)! Clip up, rear up and go. Attentive belay on clipping the second bolt off the ledge is suggested (good clipping holds, heal hook is helpful). Cheater rest out right at 3rd bolt, but coming back to take it straight on gives full value and piece of mind if one were to whip...Wind in your hair, air under your arse and your up and over the physical difficulties. Cruise the cat walk, knife edge, hail Mary, god forsaken feature, to the final ass puckering, hang it all out there moves to the chains (mental difficulties). Am i selling it?
"Turnbuckles to Talus" that is the question



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