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In Between Evolution
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Headwall
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Better Than a Movie T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Better Than Reality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Coyote Ugly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Good From Far, Far From Good T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Heavy Load S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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In Between Evolution S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lost and Found T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Snake Eyes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 390 ft (118 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 46.47243, -60.88791 |
| FA: | Greg Hughes, Michel Martin, Emily Keast, Ryan DesRoches, Nathan Benjamin and Will Sarty, June 2024 |
| Page Views: | 116 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Hughes on Jun 9, 2024 |
| Admins: | Will Bland, Greg Hughes, Will Sarty |
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Description
Pitch 1 - start on the first line of bolts right of the centre of the wall between Snake Eyes and Better Than a Movie. Steep, sustained and technical climbing. A difficult onsight. 27 meters 12 bolts 5.11b
Pitch 2 - follow the bolt line moving up and left off the ledge. Continue on this well protected traverse to an overlap. Pull through the overlap then up steep but juggy terrain to another ledge and bolted anchor. 30 meters 12 bolts 5.10a
Pitch 3 - traverse right across the ledge to a steep face. Sustained, technical and pumpy climbing will take you to a small stance and bolted belay. 20 meters 10 bolts 5.11b
Pitch 4 - move up on big holds to a 3-meter-long semi detached block. Follow bolts up to a ledge, traverse left to a corner. Climb the steep corner to a stance. Continue up easier climbing to a bolted belay near the top of the cliff. 30 meters 10 bolts 5.9
Alt start - same start as Better Than a Movie. After about 20 meters look for a bolted diagonal traverse on your left. Follow this to a long, spacious ledge. Belay on the middle of the ledge at a bolted anchor. 30 meters 7 bolts plus some trad gear, 5.10b
Protection - 12 draws should be sufficient with a couple of alpines for the pitch 2 traverse. A fixed draw is in place near the crux of pitch 3 to make clipping safer. There are bolted rappel stations on pitches 1 through 3. The route tops out making rappelling unnecessary.
Pitch 2 - follow the bolt line moving up and left off the ledge. Continue on this well protected traverse to an overlap. Pull through the overlap then up steep but juggy terrain to another ledge and bolted anchor. 30 meters 12 bolts 5.10a
Pitch 3 - traverse right across the ledge to a steep face. Sustained, technical and pumpy climbing will take you to a small stance and bolted belay. 20 meters 10 bolts 5.11b
Pitch 4 - move up on big holds to a 3-meter-long semi detached block. Follow bolts up to a ledge, traverse left to a corner. Climb the steep corner to a stance. Continue up easier climbing to a bolted belay near the top of the cliff. 30 meters 10 bolts 5.9
Alt start - same start as Better Than a Movie. After about 20 meters look for a bolted diagonal traverse on your left. Follow this to a long, spacious ledge. Belay on the middle of the ledge at a bolted anchor. 30 meters 7 bolts plus some trad gear, 5.10b
Protection - 12 draws should be sufficient with a couple of alpines for the pitch 2 traverse. A fixed draw is in place near the crux of pitch 3 to make clipping safer. There are bolted rappel stations on pitches 1 through 3. The route tops out making rappelling unnecessary.
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