Nova Scotia Climbing
Areas in Nova Scotia
36 Chambers Ice Crag
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
9 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
9
Amethyst Cove
0 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
2
Apple River
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
9 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
9
Black Brook
5 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
5
Cap d'Or
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
10 /
0 /
4 /
0 /
10
Cape Chignecto Ice
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
29 /
0 /
5 /
29 /
29
Cape Clear
4 /
6 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
10
Cape Split
0 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
6 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
6
Castle
7 /
22 /
2 /
1 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
32
Chebucto Head
0 /
4 /
0 /
4 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
8
Clarke’s Head Ice Climbing
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1
Columbus Wall
17 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
19
Crag Mirage
0 /
0 /
3 /
0 /
3 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
3
Crow's Nest
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3
Deep Cove Ice
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0
Dover Island
0 /
0 /
0 /
8 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
8
DR Ice Crag, The
1 /
0 /
20 /
0 /
26 /
0 /
6 /
0 /
27
Eagle's Nest
19 /
7 /
6 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
29
Economy Ice
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1
First Face
7 /
7 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
14
Folly River Ice Crag
0 /
0 /
21 /
0 /
23 /
0 /
3 /
0 /
24
G-Spot (The Spot)
10 /
17 /
1 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
28
Gibralter Rock
7 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
9
Gnar Wall
3 /
1 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Halls Harbour
0 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
4 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Howe Crag
4 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Joggins
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
19 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
19
Keenomee Ice Crag
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1
Kitchen, The
4 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Magaretsville Ice
0 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
2
Main Face
13 /
12 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
25
Moose River Ice
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
9 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
9
Morden
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
2
Old Mill
0 /
7 /
4 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
9
Railway Crag
2 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3
Ravens Head
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
5 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
5
Sandy Cove
0 /
0 /
0 /
15 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
15
Sorrow's End
10 /
8 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
18
Virginia Slab
0 /
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3
Walton-East Sector Ice
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 205 ft |
GPS: |
44.6999, -63.5889 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 209,734 total · 997/month |
Shared By: | The Mitt on Dec 6, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Will Bland, Greg Hughes |
Description
Nova Scotia, the land of the sharp granite. The bouldering is second to none and has become a real destination. The roped climbing is generally short and technical. Trad routes outnumber sport routes, grades are steep, and the gear can be sparse. The rock is mostly on solid granite, though there are some other rock types, notably the basalt climbing in the Valley-Fundy Region, and the greywacke in the Halifax region.
Halifax is the most populated area in Nova Scotia and therefore has the most climbers. The majority of climbing development is also currently around this area and generally a 20 to 40 minute drive from the city. Much of the roped climbing is in Musquodoboit area but there are also excellent cliffs in the Terrence Bay area, while the most established bouldering is near Peggy's Cove.
The majority of the information found here has been sourced from the 2002 guidebook "Nova Scotia Rock" by Sean Cassidy.
A new guidebook to rope climbing was published in 2019 and covers 50 crags in 5 regions throughout Nova Scotia. Samples and details can be found at rockclimbingnovascotia.com/
While this website serves as an online resource for roped climbing in NS, an excellent bouldering resource can be found at cnsmobeta.ca/
Climb Nova Scotia is the climbing governing body in NS. Their website can be found at www.climbnovascotia.com
Halifax is the most populated area in Nova Scotia and therefore has the most climbers. The majority of climbing development is also currently around this area and generally a 20 to 40 minute drive from the city. Much of the roped climbing is in Musquodoboit area but there are also excellent cliffs in the Terrence Bay area, while the most established bouldering is near Peggy's Cove.
The majority of the information found here has been sourced from the 2002 guidebook "Nova Scotia Rock" by Sean Cassidy.
A new guidebook to rope climbing was published in 2019 and covers 50 crags in 5 regions throughout Nova Scotia. Samples and details can be found at rockclimbingnovascotia.com/
While this website serves as an online resource for roped climbing in NS, an excellent bouldering resource can be found at cnsmobeta.ca/
Climb Nova Scotia is the climbing governing body in NS. Their website can be found at www.climbnovascotia.com
Classic Climbing Routes at Nova Scotia
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● Siren's Song | Amethyst Cove |
|
WI5- TR, Ice 3 pitches | |
● The Bear | Dover Island > Warm-up |
|
V4 6B Boulder | |
● The Wave | Dover Island > Wave Area |
|
V5 6C Boulder | |
● Bye Bye Beep | G-Spot (The Spot) |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport | |
● Dreamberry wine | Sorrow's End |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR | |
● See With Joy | Sorrow's End |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | |
● 1492 | Columbus Wall |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | |
● Low Tide | Chebucto Head |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | |
● Lycra, Spandex, and All Thi… | Sorrow's End |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
● All the Rage | Sorrow's End |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | |
● Black Diamond | First Face |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | |
● Taming the Shrew | Castle > Watch Tower |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | |
● Pyramid | First Face |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad | |
● Ludicrous Anachronism (LA) | First Face |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | |
● The Golden Egg | Castle > Gatehouse |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport |
Weather Averages
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