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Elevation: 205 ft 62 m
GPS: 44.6999, -63.5889
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Shared By: The Mitt on Dec 6, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Will Bland, Greg Hughes

Description Suggest change

Nova Scotia, the land of the sharp granite. The bouldering is second to none and has become a real destination. The roped climbing is generally short and technical. Trad routes outnumber sport routes, grades are steep, and the gear can be sparse. The rock is mostly on solid granite, though there are some other rock types, notably the basalt climbing in the Valley-Fundy Region, and the greywacke in the Halifax region.

Halifax is the most populated area in Nova Scotia and therefore has the most climbers. The majority of climbing development is also currently around this area and generally a 20 to 40 minute drive from the city. Much of the roped climbing is in Musquodoboit area but there are also excellent cliffs in the Terrence Bay area, while the most established bouldering is near Peggy's Cove.

The majority of the information found here has been sourced from the 2002 guidebook "Nova Scotia Rock" by Sean Cassidy.

A new guidebook to rope climbing was published in 2019 and covers 50 crags in 5 regions throughout Nova Scotia. Samples and details can be found at rockclimbingnovascotia.com/

While this website serves as an online resource for roped climbing in NS, an excellent bouldering resource can be found at  cnsmobeta.ca/

Climb Nova Scotia is the climbing governing body in NS. Their website can be found at  www.climbnovascotia.com 

Getting There Suggest change

Most of the climbing is in and around the largest city of Halifax, with several major cliffs in Cape Breton.

427 Total Climbs

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Location: Nova Scotia Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Nova Scotia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5-
 4
Siren's Song
TR, Ice 3 pitches
V4 6B
 5
The Bear
Boulder
V5 6C
 6
The Wave
Boulder
V6 7A
 4
Bulldog
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
See With Joy
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Low Tide
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
InSpired
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Lycra, Spandex, and All Things T…
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
All the Rage
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Black Diamond
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Taming the Shrew
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 4
Pyramid
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Ludicrous Anachronism (LA)
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Better Than a Movie
Trad 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
The Golden Egg
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Siren's Song Amethyst Cove
 4
WI5- TR, Ice 3 pitches
The Bear Dover Island > Warm-up
 5
V4 6B Boulder
The Wave Dover Island > Wave Area
 6
V5 6C Boulder
Bulldog Dover Island > Wave Area
 4
V6 7A Boulder
See With Joy Sorrow's End
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Low Tide Chebucto Head
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
InSpired Cape Clear > Bear Cave Gully
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lycra, Spandex, and All Thi… Sorrow's End
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
All the Rage Sorrow's End
 13
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Black Diamond First Face
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Taming the Shrew Castle > Watch Tower
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Pyramid First Face
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Ludicrous Anachronism (LA) First Face
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Better Than a Movie Cape Clear > Headwall
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
The Golden Egg Castle > Gatehouse
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Nova Scotia »

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