Elevation: 205 ft
GPS: 44.7, -63.589 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 77,253 total · 464/month
Shared By: The Mitt on Dec 6, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Greg Hughes, Will Bland

Description

Nova Scotia, the land of the sharp granite. The bouldering is second to none and has become a real destination. The roped climbing is generally short and technical. Trad routes outnumber sport routes, grades are steep, and the gear can be sparse. The rock is mostly on solid granite, though there are some other rock types, notably the basalt climbing in the Valley-Fundy Region, and the greywacke in the Halifax region.

Halifax is the most populated area in Nova Scotia and therefore has the most climbers. The majority of climbing development is also currently around this area and generally a 20 to 40 minute drive from the city. Much of the roped climbing is in Musquodoboit area but there are also excellent cliffs in the Terrence Bay area, while the most established bouldering is near Peggy's Cove.

The majority of the information found here has been sourced from the 2002 guidebook "Nova Scotia Rock" by Sean Cassidy.

A new guidebook to rope climbing was published in 2019 and covers 50 crags in 5 regions throughout Nova Scotia. Samples and details can be found at rockclimbingnovascotia.com/

While this website serves as an online resource for roped climbing in NS, an excellent bouldering resource can be found at cnsmobeta.ca/

Climb Nova Scotia is the climbing governing body in NS. Their website can be found at  www.climbnovascotia.com 

Getting There

Most of the climbing is in and around the largest city of Halifax, with several major cliffs in Cape Breton.

202 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nova Scotia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Dreamberry wine
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Recognition
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
See With Joy
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Into the Breach
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
1492
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Excellent Adventure
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Lycra, Spandex, and All Things T…
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Black Diamond
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Mr. T's Wild Ride
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
All the Rage
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Taming the Shrew
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Knockdown Street
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Brainstorm
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Ludicrous Anachronism (LA)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
The Golden Egg
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dreamberry wine Sorrow's End
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Recognition Sorrow's End
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
See With Joy Sorrow's End
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Into the Breach Castle > Watch Tower
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
1492 Columbus Wall
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Excellent Adventure Sorrow's End
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Lycra, Spandex, and All Thi… Sorrow's End
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Black Diamond First Face
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Mr. T's Wild Ride G-Spot (The Spot)
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
All the Rage Sorrow's End
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Taming the Shrew Castle > Watch Tower
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Knockdown Street Sorrow's End
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Brainstorm Main Face > E-Gully
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Ludicrous Anachronism (LA) First Face
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Golden Egg Castle > Gatehouse
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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