Nova Scotia Climbing
Areas in Nova Scotia
| Elevation: | 205 ft | 62 m |
| GPS: |
44.6999, -63.5889 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 212,360 total · 895/month | |
| Shared By: | The Mitt on Dec 6, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Will Bland, Greg Hughes, Will Sarty |
Description
Nova Scotia, the land of the sharp granite. The bouldering is second to none and has become a real destination. The roped climbing is generally short and technical. Trad routes outnumber sport routes, grades are steep, and the gear can be sparse. The rock is mostly on solid granite, though there are some other rock types, notably the basalt climbing in the Valley-Fundy Region, and the greywacke in the Halifax region.
Halifax is the most populated area in Nova Scotia and therefore has the most climbers. The majority of climbing development is also currently around this area and generally a 20 to 40 minute drive from the city. Much of the roped climbing is in Musquodoboit area but there are also excellent cliffs in the Terrence Bay area, while the most established bouldering is near Peggy's Cove.
The majority of the information found here has been sourced from the 2002 guidebook "Nova Scotia Rock" by Sean Cassidy.
A new guidebook to rope climbing was published in 2019 and covers 50 crags in 5 regions throughout Nova Scotia. These guidebooks can be purchased at the local indoor climbing gyms, MEC, and Trail Shop.
While this website serves as an online resource for roped climbing in NS, an excellent bouldering resource can be found at cnsmobeta.ca/
Climb Nova Scotia is the climbing governing body in NS. Their website can be found at www.climbnovascotia.com
Classic Climbing Routes at Nova Scotia
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● The Bear | Dover Island > Warm-up |
|
V4 6B Boulder | |
| ● The Wave | Dover Island > Wave Area |
|
V5 6C Boulder | |
| ● See With Joy | Sorrow's End > Sorrow's End |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | |
| ● 1492 | Columbus Wall > 5 - Keyhole Wall |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | |
| ● Low Tide | Chebucto Head |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | |
| ● The Price Of Admission | Cape Clear > Wave Wall |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches | |
| ● All the Rage | Sorrow's End > Sorrow's End |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | |
| ● Black Diamond | First Face |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | |
| ● Taming the Shrew | Castle > 7 - Watch Tower |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | |
| ● Pyramid | First Face |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad | |
| ● Bodacious Cowboys | Mainface > 3 - Green Wall |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | |
| ● Ludicrous Anachronism (LA) | First Face |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | |
| ● Slave to Fashion | First Face |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | |
| ● Mea Culpa | First Face |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | |
| ● The Golden Egg | Castle > 2 - Gatehouse |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport |
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