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Elevation: 205 ft 62 m
GPS: 44.6999, -63.5889
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Shared By: The Mitt on Dec 6, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Will Bland, Greg Hughes, Will Sarty

Description Suggest change

Nova Scotia, the land of the sharp granite. The bouldering is second to none and has become a real destination. The roped climbing is generally short and technical. Trad routes outnumber sport routes, grades are steep, and the gear can be sparse. The rock is mostly on solid granite, though there are some other rock types, notably the basalt climbing in the Valley-Fundy Region, and the greywacke in the Halifax region.

Halifax is the most populated area in Nova Scotia and therefore has the most climbers. The majority of climbing development is also currently around this area and generally a 20 to 40 minute drive from the city. Much of the roped climbing is in Musquodoboit area but there are also excellent cliffs in the Terrence Bay area, while the most established bouldering is near Peggy's Cove.

The majority of the information found here has been sourced from the 2002 guidebook "Nova Scotia Rock" by Sean Cassidy.

A new guidebook to rope climbing was published in 2019 and covers 50 crags in 5 regions throughout Nova Scotia. These guidebooks can be purchased at the local indoor climbing gyms, MEC, and Trail Shop.

While this website serves as an online resource for roped climbing in NS, an excellent bouldering resource can be found at  cnsmobeta.ca/

Climb Nova Scotia is the climbing governing body in NS. Their website can be found at  www.climbnovascotia.com 

Getting There Suggest change

Most of the climbing is in and around the largest city of Halifax, with several major cliffs in Cape Breton.

805 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nova Scotia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 6
The Bear
Boulder
V5 6C
 7
The Wave
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
See With Joy
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
1492
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Low Tide
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
The Price Of Admission
Sport 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
All the Rage
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Black Diamond
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Taming the Shrew
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 8
Pyramid
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Bodacious Cowboys
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
Ludicrous Anachronism (LA)
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Slave to Fashion
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Mea Culpa
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
The Golden Egg
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Bear Dover Island > Warm-up
 6
V4 6B Boulder
The Wave Dover Island > Wave Area
 7
V5 6C Boulder
See With Joy Sorrow's End > Sorrow's End
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
1492 Columbus Wall > 5 - Keyhole Wall
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Low Tide Chebucto Head
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Price Of Admission Cape Clear > Wave Wall
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
All the Rage Sorrow's End > Sorrow's End
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Black Diamond First Face
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Taming the Shrew Castle > 7 - Watch Tower
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Pyramid First Face
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Bodacious Cowboys Mainface > 3 - Green Wall
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ludicrous Anachronism (LA) First Face
 12
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Slave to Fashion First Face
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mea Culpa First Face
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Golden Egg Castle > 2 - Gatehouse
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Nova Scotia »

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