Type: Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
GPS: 47.82379, -121.566
FA: unknown
Page Views: 135 total · 7/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Apr 17, 2024
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Description Suggest change

AKA Quietlands into Scatterlings. A long technical masterpiece with numerous 5.12 cruxes linking up the line of least resistance through the sport wall. Fans of straightforward direct power climbing will hate it. The route looks uninspiring and improbable from below, yet flows well and doesn't have anything harder than ~v5. Begin with "Quietlands" for 6 or 7 bolts and that route's lower crux until able to make a leftward rising traverse (~4 bolts) connecting into the upper half of "Scatterlings", which involves more immaculate patina crimps, an iron-cross-rockover back right, a hero rail hand traverse, and a final heartbreaker deadpoint to the anchor ledge before the finishing mantle. It's got 17 bolts and almost 40m of climbing but you can lower off with a 70m due to the steep slope of the ground. Use a few long slings or back clean a bolt on either end of the traverse for the sake of rope drag.

This would make a great choice for the 1st pitch of a 5 pitch amazing sustained hard 5.12 sport* climb: 

P2: Polyhedron Power (12-)

P3: Wildest Dreams (.12-, a few small cams/wires)

P4: Heart of the Sportsman (.12)

P5: Heart of the Sportsman (.12+)

Location Suggest change

Right side of the Sport Wall, under a low bolt that protects the drippy starting mantle shared with Heart's desire. After ~6 bolts on Quietlands, move up and left from a big jug where Quiet lands goes up right. After the traverse, climb straight up the final ~7 bolts on Scatterlings. (this route is basically a 5.12 version of "Riddles of the Grid", ending up and right of that route and allowing continuation on up the wall.)

Protection Suggest change

Bolts. Bring 4-5 small cams and a few small wires for P3 (Wildest Dreams) if doing the full 5 pitch line.

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